BETA PHOTO: Unnamed from the base, ready to start the climb.
Description
This route is located immediately to the left of the Jungle Book. It is a right-arching crack splitting the large gray practice slab. Start in the alcove in the center of the slab reaching up to the finger slots. After the crux move (the start is maybe a wee bit harder than 5.8), jam and lieback the ever-widening crack. Following the crack up and to the right on a ledge brings you the anchors of the Jungle Book. Two variations exist on the top. 1st variation: (5.10) Follow the right arching crack up until it is possible to move left with face moves into a small finger crack. A few sweet ring locks bring you to anchors on which you may top rope the slab. 2nd variation: (5.10) Top the crack out to the ledge with the Jungle Book anchors. Continue up an additional twenty feet in the sweet hand to fist crack; top out on the diving board, walk back ten feet, and rap off of black Metolius anchors.
The slab to the left of the climb is often top roped by the anchors of the first variation. There exists a number of good face moves on edges (5.9). The anchors may be reached by some fifth class scrambling around the corner to the left, near the start of the pink face.
I am a novice/intermediate leader. The beginning was definitely the crux for me, and I didn't place as much pro as I should have. After finishing the crack, you top out on a small ledge where you traverse left around an arete to the anchors (I used the upper anchors, not the ones at my feet to limit rope drag over the edge; my second didn't follow me up). This arete traverse has some crazy exposure, and I protected it with a #2 cam at the right of the ledge prior to venturing left on the traverse.
By Spinalflow From: Salt Lake City , Utah Sep 14, 2007 rating: 5.9
Last year someone added a bolted anchor to the top of the upper block, what Bryan has described here as the second variation. Now, you can do the "complete" climb and lower with a 70 meter rope.
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