The right sector of the Poux Wall showing only a f...
Description
Hike left along the cliff band passing several very fingery problems. A short way up hill and in a corner/alcove is an elegant line that meanders up a vertical slab, passes a juggy roof, and finishes on a ramp. Cruxy and fingery off the ground, the route changes character completely at the roof. Turn the roof on the right via big jugs and get established in a shallow corner. Straight forward, but sharp climbing leads to a hidden sequence just below the anchor (hint - way right). This is a nice addition on good stone and worth a burn if your are here.
Route 18, aka Kor's corner. Good route, first 2 bolts are a piece of cake, 3rd clip is overhung. You stuff your leg in a hole and go for the clip. I haven't made it much past that, but I've seen it done! After the 4th bolt it's a little sketch, crimpers, but not overhung and you can't see your buddies. Two bolts for the rap.
By Michael Schneiter From: Glenwood Springs, CO Apr 27, 2009 rating: 5.11c
The bolts underneath the roof (4th and 5th bolts) were recently rebolted with new stainless steel hardware donated by Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. The fourth bolt had to be moved slightly, but I think it's still in a good spot. If anyone disagrees, please let me know.
I think that if you are shorter than 6' that 4th bolt is a bit out of reach. There is a small sidepull that you can crank into for the clip, but I thought it was strenuous and awkward.
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