No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.
Getting There
NoName Canyon can be accessed from the NoName exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approxamitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trail head. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile. The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing NoName creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.
Generally yes. All the established routes can be done with a single rope. The option exists on the West Side to go "exploring" above the cragging routes. Most of this is low angle with a few worthwhile cracks. You may want a second rope for rappelling off trees and other various anchors. If you really want quality multi pitch routes that require two rope descents in the Glenwood area, head across the Colorado River between the Hanging Lake and Shoshone exits.
Just wanted to put the word out to expect somewhat of a nasty approach to the Jungle Book area once you step off the trail/access road. It is a very steep grade and consists of mostly dirt with few solid imbedded rocks for stable foot placement. The local guide makes no mention of this. Awesome rock to climb on and throw some gear into, if you survive the approach!
Brosky, It is possible to toprope many of the crags at No Name, some easily done and some not-so-easily. The new guide attempts to give some basic directions for doing so. The Jungle Book area, Lone Tree Wall and Beginners Slab are all reasonably easy to get to with some basic to moderate scrambling.
No Name Canyon
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