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DescriptionNo Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper. Getting ThereNoName Canyon can be accessed from the NoName exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approxamitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trail head. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile. The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing NoName creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for No Name Canyon:
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Second Dihedral 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Twin Cracks 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Electric Butterfly 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Kor Line (Garden Salad) 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Lone Pine Tree Direct 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Lightning Bolt Crack 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
The Pink Face 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
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