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West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date 
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame 
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Repulsion 
Sandman 
Tommy's 11+ 

Repulsion 

5.12c

   

FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 212 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Jun 27, 2003


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Description 

This is the third route in from the left on the Pummeling Sector, and the rightmost of the trio of routes you first see at the top of the approach trail. It can be distinguished by the black Metolius hangers on most of the bolts, and climbs a sustained, gently overhanging face up a grey/black water streak on killer stone. Thankfully, this route has little or no Fortress Powder on it.

Climb past the first bolt on a clean, grey face into a patch where some big blocks fell off. Move through a rooflet, then continue up the face on sidepulls and bear-hug moves on bizarre, mini-corners. A small, final roof before the finishing slab might be the pump crux. It's a bit runout from the final bolt to the anchors, but there are good edges up there--you just need to take the time to find them.

A second pitch could be added, most likely. This could be one letter grade harder or easier than 5.12c. I dunno.


Protection 

14 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).



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By ac
Apr 16, 2004

Hey Matt:

Are you guys using the Powers 5-piece zinc plated bolts or the Fixe SS wedge bolts for the news routes here? Is there much seepage in the limestone at the Fortress?

By msamet
Apr 17, 2004

I've been using the Powers (Rawl) 5-piece steel-clad bolts, usually 1/2-inch diameter. I haven't bolted any really seepy routes yet, but I'd probably use a Tortuga or an all-stainless-steel bolt on routes like that. Most of the rock is very dry, except in the central sector (Flex, Kryptonite), where, knowing what I know now, I hesitate to even start bolting, as everything seems to start at 5.14+. It would just be an exercise in futility for me.

The last route I bolted, hoping for a 5.12, I couldn't even do all the moves on, on one of the slabbier sections of the Fortress. It's just not like Rifle, where the rock is more featured. Everything slopes the wrong way or the holds are wicked far apart or ...

I think Tommy was using 3/8 to 1/2-inch 5-piece bolts on his routes, but I'm not sure what type of metal. The wettest routes are Kryptonite and Flex and Superpowers, but I really don't know what types of bolts are in those.