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Tool Man 

5.11c

   

FA: Bryan Beavers 06'
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 299 page views

Submitted By: beavs on May 14, 2009


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Description 

4 bolts of easy climbing lead to some tricky 5.10 moves through the suddenly vertical yellow lichen covered middle section of the route. Gradually easier climbing ends abruptly below the crux bulge and the last bolt (reach high from good holds below bulge to clip). A couple of harder moves on micro edges are followed by increasingly better holds to the chains.


Location 

1st route left of Tour De Poudre and right of the obvious crack system that splits the middle/left side of the wall (Thursday Afternoon Hooky). There is a small bush above the anchor and there is not a 2nd pitch.


Protection 

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Comments on Tool Man Add Comment
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By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jul 20, 2009

I've had a couple of people suggest adding a bolt next to the 2nd to last bolt to create an anchor below the crux bulge. The moves through the bulge are a lot harder and out of character from the rest of the route. This would make the climb more like 10c with an 11c extension. I thought I may as well propose the idea here to try to get a consensus so post your opinion if you have one - thanks!

By Brian Weinstein
Aug 1, 2009
rating: 5.11

I have to agree, there is definitely no reason to add another bolt before the crux as it would change the flavor substantially. This a fun route, nice job Bryan.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Aug 2, 2009

Thanks for the feedback and I personally agree, best to leave it as is.