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Lunch Bucket Crack 

5.8- PG13

   

FA: Heyliger, Hand 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 654 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Sep 21, 2008


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Description 

Another ledgy route to the right of the multi-pitch routes on the Main Wall. Utilizes good face holds around the rotten crack that runs up the wall, as well as a couple holds in the crack. Bear right through more challenging terrain after the last bolt to the anchors.

This route is a little bit dirty, probably since it doesn't see traffic due to the fact that the bolts disappear as you look up the line from the ground. Also of note, the middle third of the starting ledge seems loose, and there's a hollow flake to the left of said ledge that is easily, and prudently, avoided.


Location 

This route climbs right on top of the line of bolts to the left of Clean-Up on Aisle 9, utilizing the crack primarily for pro.


Protection 

4 bolts.

The FAist recommends gear in this order following the second bolt: #0.75 Camalot – #3 Camalot – green Alien – bolt – Medium Stopper – bolt – #2 Camalot.

My first time up I had no gear and found the 2nd to 3rd bolt runout scary but easy, and the rest of the route comfortable. Second time up I placed a #3 Friend in an obviously cleaned out crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and felt comfy, if not a little thrilled, the rest of the way up.

Shares anchors with Clean-Up on Aisle 9.



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By morkel
From: Colorado
Jun 21, 2009

Something between the second and third bolt would be nice, as well as a piece (# 2 Cam.?) after the last bolt. Not too bad a route, follows a bit of a natural line.