Fun consistent route with just about everything you can ask for: jams, crimps, pinches, laybacks, underclings. Rest where you can on this thing. Crack skills, especially foot jams and layback, help to tame this steep route. The whole route is the crux, but the hardest move comes near the top when moving on laybacks to an interesting pinch/undercling.
Belay spot is fairly lame, the scramble to the base is a little annoying. The fixed chain for the belayer help.
Clipping the first bolt is easy but missing it could spell disaster.
Best route besides Dear Slabby I've done at the palace. Death and Disfiguration would be my third fave. Only 5.12 I've ever done as of today so I'm not the best judge, but felt potentially easy for the grade if you've got some solid crack skills a la Indian Creek. The belay just gives it character but definitely don't blow it before the clip at the first bolt.
By Buster Jesik From: Loveland CO Apr 28, 2008 rating: 5.12a
One can belay from the bottom of the gully (by the base of Dear Slabby) with no problems.
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