First pitch: Starts off on two cold shuts then traverse right then back left. This route seems to be all over the wall. Bolt placement seems strange and they are very spread out, although they are there when you need them. As long as you are confident at the grade, this route won't make you sweat too much. 5.10a
Second Pitch: ? 5.11d
Location
Approaching the main face from the trail, take a right after getting to the crag. This route is the very first one on the main face going right to left. Starts just a few feet left of the tree.
Protection
First Pitch: 7 bolts and two anchor bolts that are shared with the route to the left. Long runners aren't a bad idea to keep the drag down.
Second Pitch: Per derek peavey: there is a bolted second pitch to this climb that goes at .11d.
Derek, thanks for the info. Is the second route part of this line or the one to the left? From what I could tell, the two right most routes shared anchors. Who does the second pitch belong to? I guess it doesn't matter other than just organizational purposes.
The second pitch is part of the coldshut route which is a route that was there before I started climbing there 4 years ago. The route to the left was put up but an unknown person last summer. There was two side by side bolts about 20 ft. up for some reason. One of the bolts has been removed. I have not climbed that route yet, so I don't know if there is a second pitch to that line.
I climbed both of the right most routes and from what I can tell (which may not be correct) they both end at the same anchors. However, with this line you have to do some considerable traversing to the left to get to the anchors. It seems strange that someone would go to that much trouble to put the anchors so far out there. I'll update the posting when I get a chance to do the second pitch, any suggestions/clarifications would be helpful.
If you guys are talking about the route farthest to the right that starts with cold shuts, that is a Craig Luebben route called Fantastic Voyage that goes 5.10- on the first pitch, and I'm not sure on the second pitch. I don't know about the x rating, I don't remember it being that sketchy, but maybe we are not talking about the same route. The one I am talking about is as far as you can go to the right on the ledge right by the tree that starts with cold shuts.
I think we are talking about the same route. The bolting is fairly spaced out, at least compared to the other routes on the wall. The good thing is that they are there when you need them, so it doesn't feel sketchy.
I have yet to climb this route. I believe this is a route a friend of mine was always trying to get me to climb. There was only one route on the face when he put it up. So, I don't think Craig put this up. And, it may have also be called Better Than TV. Or was it Better Than VD? Depends whether you like it or not I guess.
Okay, the second pitch is nice. As good as any of the other second pitches here that I've climbed-they have so far had bolts farther spaced than the first pitches. Makes for fun. Fairly certain this is the route I was told about, Better Than TV, 5.11c**
Whatever route this is, the second pitch definitely improves the overall route quality and, I think, is fairly graded at 11d. The crux is sort of short, but is pretty powerful and rather than doing the moves to be rewarded by a big rest, you have to climb an 11ish sequence to a nice hold, and then some 10 moves to a legit rest.
This route is more like 165 feet long. P1: ~90 ft, P2: 72ft.
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