This is a favorite 1-pitch route. It ascends the obvious right facing dihedral directly above the Eden area pullout. Hike a few feet upslope from the pullout to a nice level belay spot. I would advise the belayer at the base to anchor in since the crux is only a few feet off the deck and a fall could result in both people rolling down slope into their car (or the road) below.
As noted above, the crux is only a little ways off the deck, but high enough to make you think twice about your gear before you pull the moves. Climb up to an overhang. Place some bomber gear and crank over (5.9). Then enjoy stemming, jamming, and liebacking the handcrack that lies above (5.8). Lots of fun! As you belay your partner up, you can watch folks rubber neck at you as they drive by.
Protection
Standard rack - possibly bring some doubles of hand-sized cams. Be sure to save 2-3 runners with biners for the bolted belay at the top. 2 ropes for the rappel.
You can climb past the anchors and continue to the top of the wall. The rock quality deteriorates a little but I don't remember it being too bad. I actually didn't mean to climb past the anchor but I lost my glasses earlier that day. I didn't even see the anchor and I just ended up at the top of the wall, to my surprise.
East of Eden is a great climb, and would be 3 stars at any area. But, unfortunately, it's about the only route worth climbing in that area of the Poudre.
What a neat line in that area of the canyon. Great rock quality. Get those small stoppers ready before you pull the crux. You can get at least two beauties before you crank over the small roof. The rest is pure joy.
You can rap to the ledges with a 58 meter rope or more (long story). Also you can get away with a rack of nothing larger than a #1 Camalot pretty easily. This line is well worth doing, and is a great finish to a day you almost rolled your truck in the canyon and boarded down diamond peaks (I wouldn't recommend the first though).
This is a great crack climb. Gear up to a #3 Camalot...doubles of #2 and #3 if you want to sew it up. This would be unbelievable if it went for another 1000 feet.
By todd westfall From: Loveland, Co Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.9
The misconception is that it's easier after the crux roof, maybe not as hard but still requires an extended amount of focus and sustainable strength for the next 100'. The pro is selective, rest stops are there but not given away. Keep in mind that the river is right next to you and conversation / commands are muffled at best. Did this route with Denise and Chad as a group of three. The anchors are solid and there is enough room, although the stance is not all that comfortable. We will be back for more in the near future. Definitely a great route.
By denise 911 From: fort collins, co Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Roof is technical crux (and height dependent - as is much of the route) I agree with Todd - don't think it's easy sailing once over the roof - I found the bulge just above more trying. "Front Range Crags" lists this as 5.9+. Fun sustained climbing the whole way - we'll be back for this one again.
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