BETA PHOTO: In the middle of the 10-something section. Dyno is...
Description
This climb starts out with thin 5.10 face climbing up to a left ward traverse to an obvious under-clinging hold. The guidebook says to go big with a lunge to a jug, but there are 2 other ways to climb the route. If you are tall, you can get a shoulder wenching high gaston out right and do the move static. It is also possible to bypass the move on the right with 5.11a face climbing. Unique moves....
Very fun but not consistent, middle part is much easier and provides good rests. First few moves are great, watch the foot work if you hit the gaston at the overhang.
I think Spencer hit it right on the nose. The lunge is also possible to do static with out the gaston. Really cool move and you are missing out if you avoid it.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Nov 18, 2007 rating: 5.11b
Opening moves are probably 11a-ish then the middle sequence probably goes at 10. I couldn't stick the dyno, so I moved off a crimp to a gaston out right. This way probably takes it down a letter grade or two (but I suck at dynos). Like all routes here, the bottom was tricky for me to read.
I'm 5.9 and I didn't dyno, really stretched out. I never left my right foot hold. Instead of the right side pull at the crux, look for a knob to undercling and float to the jug. If you know how to levitate, that would help some.
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