Located on the Hank's Boulder, between Scarface and Hank's Arete. Start low on a good sidepull crimp with your right hand and the left hand uses one of the starting edges of Scarface. Move straight up to incredibly small crimps on the black face and then to the sloper rail.
Skipping the start by jumping from the ground to the sloper rail makes this a fun V3.
Just a thought regarding this problem. I'm working it from a sit-start below the previous RH starting edge with LH on a gaston, RH crimp. Cross over to the old start hold and do the problem. This sit-start adds a bit to the difficulty by making the set-up for the first lock off more complicated. It also makes the problem complete from the ground. I'd like to know what others think.
Peter, Daniel Woods is working it from a sit start on the far left arete (start of One Ton Ho) traversing through the bottom of Scarface then up The Fuck You Finger, finishing up and right. He was one move from hitting the sloper rail then gave it a rest. He thinks it will be V12 easily, and maybe V13.
I think that doing the original problem is the only way to make it non-contrived. The variations above are simply that, variations that happen to be VERY contrived. I for one would not put a rating or name on something so contrived or even work on something just for the #. It makes it less appealing. My 2 cents.
If AC knew Peter Beal, he would know he is NOT working this problem from a TRUE sit-start solely for the #. Admittedly, he asked what other people think, but couldn't you just say its contrived and leave it at that?
Plenty of us think "complicated" contrived variations are fun, me included.
Y'know, Peter seems to get a ration of undeserved shit on this site. He's a good guy, and one of the few, with others like Jim Redo, in the Front Range putting up routes at a high standard.
No, contrived means that from your sit start position, you could go right into Hanks Arete, left into Scarface, or up into the F you Finger. Very much less apealing. Dont ask if you dont want others opinions.