This fun low traverse is on the boulder just downhill and to the left of the Piano Boulder, as you approach from the parking area. Begin this traverse on good holds on the south end of the boulder, with a heel hook at the start. Traverse to the left, then go around the corner to the good under-clings and move to the top.
You can also start the same way, move right and up, and there is one huge jug, and a few smaller pinches but just go right up over the top of the point and it's a V0/1.
An extension has been done which continues traversing left through the standard finish (huge underclings on north wall), and rounding the NE corner while staying as low as possible the entire way. Some juggy low holds and a rest lead to the crux last move: a long lock-off from a good, albeit painful, right-handed gaston while perched on left foot nubbins, to an elusive but positive pocket up and left on the east-facing "wall". Stick it and top out. Like everything around this area the problem is a bit contrived but fun. Worth working if you've sent the standard sloper traverse (I've also heard this referred to as "Baby Grand Traverse") too many times. Probably V5+ with the extension and possibly a 6 with the addition of a silly, totally unnecessary lower sit start at the very beginning of the traverse. Enjoy.
Where does the consensus of V11 come from? I have done this traverse and I am nowhere close to a V11 climber....
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 15, 2008
This is from a flaw in the consensus rating algorithm and there are various examples of oddities within the database. We'll have the person who wrote the algorithm look at it and try to address it. Thanks for pointing out this.
Piano Ridge
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