Begin the problem down the ridge at the end of the first band of rocks, this is the Torture Chamber. The problem is a continuous, juggy traverse up the ridge to the right keeping the feet as high as possible, a long traverse without a doubt. Variations exist, probably all with a FA by Gill too, using smaller holds for the hands and keeping the feet higher. All the variations make the problem more difficult.
Protection
A pad and a spotter can be helpful, but not at all necessary as the route never is more then a few feet above the ground.
When I first moved here in '73 the "8mm" (beta wasn't around yet) was that on the "real "Torture Traverse your feet couldn't touch the rotten band under the overhang. I would say that done this way, it's probably about v3-4 with 2-3 separate "cruxes" but all in all a heel hooking masterpiece !
Actually Adam, I just found out on Gill's website that along with "the no feet on the rotten band" rule, Gill say's that his way was "No Heelhooks Allowed" either. Better bump my grading up B1+ !!
Work all the way up (to the obvious pocket end/topout) and back down (left) for a nice little pump. Use the sweet kneebar 3/4 of the way through for extended rest if need be. The rotten band is bad form.
Torture Chamber
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