Finished on TS Standard route, started on Powergli...
Description
An easier line (left arete is easiest) up the Talent Scout Boulder. On the right side of the rock, about 2 1/2 feet right of the starting crimps of talent scout at chest level, grab the left facing rectagular block. Somehow paste your feet to the left on the glassy smears. Fire up left to an good incut. More nice moves, alternately out left and back right work up the face on positive holds. Be careful of the block if you fall. Would be three stars if it weren't for the polished feet, especially at the start.
Protection
Pad is nice to cover the large block at the base. A good spotter standing on the block might be able to direct the fall a little.
The starting right hand hold just broke a couple of weeks ago making a very slopy hold. Probably needs an upgrade to V2. Try starting matched on the slopling hold and then going the the pocket crip. The polished feet are bad but it only means that you have to crank harder.
Another way to do the 'New' Talent Scout Standard is to start on the two sloping crimps to the left of the broken start hold. Now climb straight up into the two finger slots and then return out and right to the original line.
Fun problem, tricky start. The discussion on Powerglides page mentions the Standard Rt. as being V3? I started on the two crimps from Powerglide bumped to the extremely chalky block on the right - matched in the good pocket slot and finished on the jugs from the Standard Rt. Seemed V3-V3+. Don't know if I was mixing problems or if that's the New TS Standard Rt as mentioned above?
Rotary Park
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