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Nipple Wall
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The Nipple Wall 

V3 R

   

FA: unknown (Steve Bass ?)
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3 [details]
Views: 940 page views

Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 13, 2002


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Southeast Reservoir is closed.

BETA PHOTO: This is the Nipple Wall.


Description 

Just south of the North Slabs sits a right-facing dihedral with a tall, broad, clean wall on its right. (It's the second corner S of North Slab, I think.) A fantastic balance line climbs past a few good crimps at the start, pinches a couple of "Nipples" and finishes on sloper dish-pockets. The rock really reminds me of Shelf. The crux is high, moving through the slopers. A good variation that I did "awhile" back is "The Radical Mastectamy": climb the wall without using the two nipples at all.V4/5


Protection 

Pretty highball, so a spotter might help.



Comments on The Nipple Wall Add Comment
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By dave v
From: Helena, MT
Feb 13, 2008

This is a fantastic problem. Balance and technique, not power. I did it once in '77. Never repeated. Well worth working on!

By Buster Jesik
From: CO
Jun 9, 2008

If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor.

By Ricky Newman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2008
rating: V3 PG13

Ughhhhh! Best "V3" problem at Rotary, yet so often overlooked. While the fall from the crux can be intimidating at best, with a big pad or two small ones and a conscious spotter, this problem shouldn't cause any bodily harm. While the R grade may have applied back before the landing was gardened, I don't think it is as applicable today.

By Paul Carlson
From: fort phil collins, co
Jun 27, 2008
rating: V3

Hands down the best V3 at Rotary. If you like this one, go check out the Scoop. I'd take it one step further and say the current condition of the landing doesn't even warrant a PG-13. It's a clean fall onto a gardened, although slightly slanted, landing. Don't be intimidated by this rating, go check it out!

By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 13, 2009

This is great problem, really a must do. Like everyone's said, I wouldn't let the landing deter you. I came off 3 or 4 times near the top and landed safely on my pad every time.

By seth0687
From: Fort Collins
May 13, 2009

There is no reason for this to have an R rating IMO.