Just so you don't get the wrong idea, I haven't climbed this route. I don't even want to climb this route. Maybe someday I'll rig a toprope, but I doubt it.
The most famous route at Rotary Park, yet climbed by relatively few. This problem is on the west face of the Mental Block. The horrific sloping topout is easily visible to the north of the main Rotary Park area. New improved trails lead to all the major rocks at Rotary Park.
The pinch hold is obvious when you're there. Grip it with your right hand, a slight lieback may help. I just grip the pinch hold and jump to the lip and slap the sloper. Harder folks will want to get their feet on the rock before doing the dyno to the lip - this is more difficult, and infinitely better style. Now that you're hanging from the sloper with your left hand, get your right hand up there - you need to control your swing, but you knew that.
This is the point at which I drop back to the ground and sulk back to the Eliminator boulder.
To finish the problem, mantle. Or die. You can move your hands up to the next hold, do a super high step, and rock up. Or, just press the mantle out with no feet. It looks easier if you go right a bit, but purists will probably accuse you of cheating. After 'completing' this problem, you'll either walk proudly back to your car, or be carried to a waiting ambulance on a stretcher.
It's easy to bail from the lip, as there is a small flat spot between ankle/leg/cranium breaking boulders directly below. It isn't too hard to gradually work up to the dyno to the lip - to get a feel for things and figure out your tragectory and how to land in the above mentioned flat spot should you not make it. However, to complete the problem requires maximum commitment for the highly technical mantle. Failure will result in a train wreck of a fall. Good luck.
Protection
crash pads, king sized mattresses, large and strong spotters who like you
I'll fess up. I toproped it. I pulled the slap via the jump start off the block. I used feet above and out to the right to mantle. Lastly, the mantle was scary on toprope -- staring straight down the problem as I pressed it out. I shiver runs down my spine thinking of the mantle without a toprope.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Dec 10, 2001
I worked on this problem last time I was up at Horsetooth and scared myself silly with the mantle. I had 4 crashpads and 3 good spotters under me and I still backed off every time. The landing isn't total death, but when faced with a no-holds sloping mantle 10 feet above the sloping ground, it takes some serious determination to keep going.
On a lighter note- the one move from the pinch to the slopers before the mantle is really cool!
Great variation is to start on Pinch with your right hand.Pull onto the rock and traverse left into Standard, topout on standard (V6 or V7 slightly reach dependent).
Someone's used glue on this problem. I'm not anti-glue but the section of rock glued is not even a part used to do the problem. The glue does not reinforce any hand or footholds. It's 100% completely unneccessary. Why deface one of the most famous boulder problems in America???
By Nick W. From: Fort Collins, CO Jul 13, 2007 rating: V5
Awesome problem, definitely one of the best at Rotary. Although scary, it is relatively safe with two medium-sized crashpads placed appropriately and a strong spotter that you trust. My partner fell from a high heel hook with his hips above the lip, came down totally sideways and was fine with just the two pads and a spot. Don't let the intimidation of the problem keep you away like it did me for so long, it is a great problem that should be done more often.
Awesome problem. Too bad someone yanked the jutting rocks at the base of this even after repeated attempts to replace them. Aside from erosion issues, and though the moves remain ultra classic, I can't help but think some of its character and "mental" reputation have also been "gardened" along with the landing. That said, I'm sure the new, flat landing won't deter many climbers from giving this problem the attention it truly deserves regardless of landing.
4 pads and this problem is close to a gym problem. A good spotter or two and you should have the noggin to rock out the mantel. I have pitched back first numberous time before completing the problem and have not been faced with death :) It is possible to mess your self up so stack your padz right.
Don't give up on this problem. The day you finally rock that mantel over is quiet an uplifting experience.
Rotary Park
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