Downhill and to the left from the meditation boulder, or downhill and right of Bolt Wall, Cat's Eye and Talent Scout lies this low boulder, unassuming in nature until one looks at the 20 foot long, 5' high overhanging west face. Traverse along the face without using the top (two variations for finish include the standard by staying on the finishing rail, or using the slopers on the top of the rock). Very fun power endurance, once you become very familiar reverse the problem. Or start working the V9 but scraping low traverse.
Protection
Other than the small boulder near the end of the problem, and the horizontal nature of some of the moves, this traverse remains within a couple feet of a soft landing the whole way. Bring either a crash pad or a spotter make this lowball very safe, after a little work you'll feel safe without either.
Sorry, but I haven't dropped any acid since the '70s and for the record Malcomn Daly used to go up and back 3 times as a warm up! Of course, after the finger-lock broke off 6-7 years ago about a third of the way up, the route is a LOT harder then it used to be; the last time I was up there in May 2001 I could only go up and back. I can remember my name just fine, it's the age thing I have to stop and figure out; let's see 2002 -1955. I'm sorry, I'm just jealous of all you new kid's out there sending your v15+, I can't climb over V9 any more. Now what was really hard was doing all those laps on Tendonitis! Dave B.
Let me tell you, when there is 22" of snow on the ground and muddy outside from the melting snow... this gets a little harder to do. Im working it right now and have gotten the first crux down in the middle but its deff something i wanna finish on a warmer day, not in Jan.
This is my personal standard for V5 traversing. Interesting and fun moves the entire way. For the full V5 value I recommend NOT using the slopers at the last crux (right after the heel hook over the impending back breaker, which you won't actually hook when doing the sloper finish), and instead using a lower right hand gaston, left heel, and crossing to the left sidepull above gaston and before sloper top. Then move to the final crack slots under the top slopers and finish. In the Horsetooth hang bookelet the sloper finish actually garnered more points even though it seems comically easier. For more pump, traverse the rarely done NE face from far left to right, then round the corner and drop into punk. Or if you prefer, try the super squatty low line (Kelley Traverse V8).
Rotary Park
RSS Feed
