A beautiful place to boulder, and a good variety of problems litter this area. All problems are found on the mile long east bank of Carter Lake. Most are slightly higher and away from the bank, with on exeption being Big Kahuna Roof, which one writer described as "Colorado's Best V5." Being close to shore, it actually lies underwater during part of the year.
The rock type feels more gentle to the fingers than Flagstaff, and there's a refreshingly nice variation of moderate lines. Landings are more in the ankle-injuring genre, given the somewhat higher elevation of the problems, but not death-like.
Steve Mammen deserves the credit for developing most of the problems in this area. We welcome more thorough commentary on this area, as we have only rarely visited it; though we do plan on journeying more up there in the future.
Getting There
It is about a 45 minute drive from Boulder. From Boulder, take CO 119 (Diagonal Highway) north into longmont until it terminates at 287. Go north on CO Hwy 287 approximately 11 miles, where the road takes a blantantly obvious, 90 degree, banked, arcing, right turn, with a gas station on the west side of the road. There are signs at this point for Carter Lake. Instead of entering the turn, go straight ahead, and then take a left on 56 (the road right behind the gas station). Follow for about 3.1 miles, and then take a left. Follow for another 3 miles, and enter the park. You have to pay $6 for a day pass here. Follow the road to a junction with a sign that notes that continuation goes to the south side of the resivoir, and to take a right means to go to the boat launch.
Going straight, the road arcs up and right 200 yards further, and the lake is basically in site. There is a pull off for a dirt parking lot on the right side, but it kind of comes up as a surprise. Park here, and take the Fawn Hollow Trail north, staying on the ridge line or below, towards the lake.
Going right from that junction, you park at the parking available, and walk south to access the boulders around the lake.
This is, in my opinion, the best line at Carter Lake. It climbs the Northeast arete of the doughboy boulder. Start with a left hand in the obvious, fist-sized pocket on the east-facing wall and a right hand on the arete. Figure out a way to get yourself up to the sidepull above the pocket with your left hand. Now comes the hard part. You have to get yourself up the arete by slapping and finding interesting foot placements. Halfway up there's a li...[more]
Although popular among boaters, this is a good place to escape the crowds of Morrison and Flagstaff. In the summertime, don't forget your SCUBA gear; the lake bottom is full of treasure (as well as muck and garbage).
A great place to climb, one of the few places you can get on the rock several times a week before work and still make it in before the boss. From Loveland it is only a 15 min drive.
I [don't] know about a R&I issue, but there is an article on Carter Lake in an old Climbing mag (ca.2 yrs ago). Cover says: "Escape from Kyrzigstan!" or whatever.
There's lion (mountain) and bears up there @ Pinewood. I had a way too close encounter with a bear night fishing. The same night 2 mountain lions were roaming the area. Put your food away @ night and your fish. Have to be anon for now until tomorrow.
Tried lots of other places, as far as mummy pass even, this is still the best place when time is short and energy high, other than the fee (buy a season pass), this is one of the greatest bouldering areas around, especially with Horsetooth messed up by construction.
Check out the boulder 15' north of the Kahuna boulder. It has recently tipped onto its side revealing at least four new problems. The NE arete is stunning with slopers, pinches, and a high (20') finish on perfect stone.
The North Fawn Hollow trailhead (Dam 1 parking) is open again. It still looks a bit like a construction area, but the trail sign is up again and a park officer confirmed it was legal to park there.
Can you climb below the construction line now? ...I'd like to head up there and climb the Kahuna Roof Boulder, last time I was there it was unaccessible.
Parking next to the dam was a go yesterday. Although half the parking lot was off limits by concrete barriers.
The water level was pretty low, exposing an excellent quality rock with many awesome V3-V8 problems one after the other. It's another 100ft lower on the shoreline than Kahuna.
Carter Lake
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