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The Short Bus
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NW Arete 
Short Bus, The 
SW Arete 
V4 

The Short Bus 

V8

   

FA: 
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V8 [details]
Length: 12 feet
Views: 196 page views

Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 13, 2008


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Description 

Start both hands in the obvious low hueco, and move up and right along bad edges and pockets until you reach better holds.

Establishing is definitely the hardest part. The unique solution involves knee barring against you hand in order to reach the first edge. Expect to lose a little skin on your hand in the process of learning the correct body position. Be patient because it will feel improbable at first, but once you figure the move out it feels reasonable.

This route barely missed getting a four star rating. Although it's not contrived and the moves are really good, it's missing the aesthetics, and flow that most classic problems demonstrate. All and all a great problem.


Location 

The central line on the Short Bus Boulder.


Protection 

A crashpad.