This is THE route of the area, oh so obvious, oh so good. It doesn't get much better than this.
Start under the roof where the first crux is climbing the initial wall without getting mice piss or poo on your hands (for a "clean" ascent - ahem) at the hand traverse at the base of the roof. Reach out and grab the lip. Prevent swing and fire for the choice edges higher. Pull over the roof and fire for the exquisite flakes along the Seam.
Enjoy the ride to the top on some of the nicest flakes you'll find north of Hueco Tanks.
Location
In the alcove left of the Spice Roof. The most obvious line following flakes up the seam on the hanging headwall above the roof.
Yeah this was one of the first problems I ever climbed at Carter and probably the nicest line on the block. There's a a couple other problems, a V3 on the right (Seam II) and a deceptively tough V5 in the middle of the two called the Undercling. Try starting on the right problem and traverse the lip of the roof to the left using hand holds from all three problems. Finish on perfect flakes of The Seam. All nostalgia aside, there are definitely more classic problems in the immediate area though perhaps none as good at the grade.
All in all it is a very fun problem. We used to climb it in the winter back in '92 or so. I agree, good sun, good overhand, good view. One of the best at the grade at CL.
RSS Feed
