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Southern Arete 

Southern Arete 

V0

   

FA: Arapaho Indians
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V0- [details]
Views: 62 page views

Submitted By: Michael Walker on Nov 15, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: The Southern Arete V0, and the Leaning Face V1 of ...


Description 

This is THE line on the Spaceship. But where's the line?

After a hundred different variations, I think I've boiled it down to a smooth, fun line that goes something like this:

Layback the nice edges at the Cockpit of the Spaceship to get your feet off the ground on the overhanging face. A couple of long reaches gets you to bomber edges along the Arete.

Now, instead of continuing straight up the arete(which makes the climb easier and is a fine alternative), follow a line of nice crisp edges right, out onto the overhanging face. Watch your feet. Reach for the crisp horizontal on the right side of the face a few feet below the pointed summit. Now, fire straight up the prow using small, but good, chickenheads and snag the pointed arrowhead summit - victory!


Location 

Start at the flat, sandy South side base of the Spaceship, grabbing hold of edges on the Cockpit.


Protection 

The arete leans over a large, slanting rock, so a moving pad or a spotter moving a pad, or multiple pads would be nice. It's not a long fall, but it's not flat, either.