East Face South Side or Left 

This is the easiest and best climb on the Fifth Flatiron. Most of the climb is quite easy, and there are a couple of harder cruxes. The rock is near perfect, and the rating is probably a little high. I'd call it F4, with perhaps two moves of F5 to get over a bulgy step.

As of 7/3/2003 there is a BD microcam that some poor soul left nearly fixed at the first belay. I say "nearly" because it's possible to clean it if you don't mind standing about and working on it (which I DID mind, what with the temperature at 100F, the sun beating down, and my second beginning to curse audibly). Grade: if you follow the route described here, there is maybe only one (or at most two) 5.5 moves. The rest is 5.3-5.4. Pro: a bit scarce, but the climbing so easy that it probably doesn't matter. I did a variation of this route a year ago that stayed closer to the center of the face, and the opportunities for protection were much better -- every 10'-20' instead of every 30'-50'. Rope: a 60m rope is just right for the first two pitches; after that, it's more than enough. Gear: a few smaller cams, nuts, hexes. Could've used some larger cams for anchors (BD #3), but they're certainly not required.

I climbed this wonderful route with Rick Accomazzo this morning. This is perhaps my fourth or fifth time on the route. I'd put it on my list of Top Ten Flatiron routes that I'm comfortable soloing.

We found the ropeless downclimb for the first time this morning. It is not obvious, but once located it is not very difficult. Anyone capable of soloing this route should be capable of doing this downclimb, once you know where you're headed.

From the summit, downclimb 80' to a prominent notch in the northeast ridge. Several feet south of the notch, find a hole that is just the right size and lower yourself through to a comfortable stance on a sloping shelf. A backpack will definitely not go through this hole unless it is removed from its wearer. A 200-pound person will go through. Don't ask me how I know this.

The sloping shelf is lichen-covered, but there are a few footholds that inspire confidence. At the far east (lower) end of the shelf, near a tiny tree, there are some reasonably good, positive handholds close to the edge. Use these holds to lower yourself down an overhanging wall to a ledge 10' off the ground. This is the only hard move and it is probably 5.4. Once on this ledge, scramble west to hiking territory.

Oh, and as a reminder--don't try to hike down between the Fourth and Fifth Flatirons! It's a jungle down there! Hike uphill, around the top of the Fifth, and down a good climber's path south of the Fifth Flatiron until you reach Royal Arch.

I shot a short movie of our climb on 1/7/06: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/1movie.php?movieid=8. This is a very fun, mellow climb. I'll bet if you have a 70 meter rope you can do it in three pitches - I was tempted to try with our 60 meter rope.

The first part of the description is correct 100%. I started on the far South side but instead of heading right to the "left leaning crack" I kept going left and never found the crack until I was above it at the belay. What I found was a 50 foot run out that I was not happy with, even on easy rock. Head in a rightward direction from the start!

Easy though long approach and descent, good rock, plenty of good belay station options, sustained 5.5 friction climbing with a fun finish and rappel, tough to protect at times. This would be a classic if it were closer to the trail head.