This route starts following an arete leaning right, soon traversing left into a mean offwidth protected by the third and forth bolt. The next lead out section can be climbed with little pro up to an 1 1/2". or just ran out to the last bolt(5.8+) just under the roof of Introducing Meteor Dad.
Climbing five bolts to a hollow flake. Gear up to an 1" or so. Caution, place at the bottom of flake (wiggly at top). Traverse back right to last bolt, and this climb shares anchor w/ Introducing Meteor Dad.
The route described here is Live Wire (not listed on this site), climbed by Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen in 1985. Someone retro-bolted the route in the last couple years (4 bolts at the bottom, followed by a finger crack, and then two bolts at the top -- these last two bolts protect 10 feet of original climbing, as Wilford and Mammen likely finished out to the left).
Great route, really run-out after the last bolt but all the moves are there! Was wondering why there weren't bolts for this climb at the top, had to share the anchor with "Introducing Meteor Dad". Overall good moves thought the crux was about mid-way up through the left-facing dihedral! Pretty thin hands and smeary feet! 2 thumbs up!
Thanks G. I love the finger crack, and the lay backs, but the top could use some work. The last ran out bolt, to the shared anchor of Meteor Dad, they might as well have put another anchor up, since they ruined the original route, and now confusing others.
RSS Feed
