Although it may appear that the beautiful, bullet slab left of 'Neurosurgeon' is all but featureless, don't be fooled, for there is in-fact a thin, arching seam that offers just barely enough to grab.
Begin the route with easy slab climbing on featured rock. Clip the third bolt and start a 30 foot section of amazing stone where grips are few and far between. Ride the varying seam via tight jams, lay backs and odd mini-pinches until you clip the 6th bolt and rest on good feet. Traverse right on tiny crimps and finish up and left through underclings to anchors.
Brilliant, engaging climbing on super rock. French for 'The Eternal Diamond'.
A couple other things: Not sure about FA, heard it was Rob, but again not sure. In the Lyons Area guidebook it states that this climb is anywhere from 5.13a/b to 13c/d. I thought that it was definitely harder than the Boulder Canyon route 'Die Reeperbahn' which seems to be 13b or so and similar in nature. Have not heard of anyone else doing this route, but if so maybe you could please also offer your opinion for the sake of the route here on MP? Cheers!
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO May 5, 2008 rating: 5.13b/c
I believe I got the 2nd on this......13 years ago. It is definitely a Candelaria route and I like the mid 13 grade. I'm pretty good with f**ked up slab climbing and this thing stays in your face as I recall. Glad to see it is getting more attention.
Wow. This thing is relentless after the third bolt. Does it escape left at the top? The face directly above the final bolt looked even more featureless than the rest of the route. Maybe a throw up right to a crimp jug? Maybe I just need to have another look, it was a bit wet up at the top today.
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