Classic pumpy sport route climbs directly out of the drink. Reach the Escape from Alcatraz pedastal via rock hopping across river, or access the right side of wall and boulder again left. Climbing directly left from the pedestal, clip traversing bolt with runner or double runner (or unclip later). Now, climb the past the corner and up into the thuggish face. The crux comes near the top after the pump is well settled into the forearms. Great moves, rock and fun!
Protection
Seven or eight bolts to two bolt anchor from the bolt anchor on the pedastal below Escape From Alcatraz. Listed as 'R' in guide, but perhaps bolt was added, for there were no sizable run-outs as of late.
Yeah, it's a little less protected than a lot of sport climbs, but definitely don't let that bother you at all. This line has the most clean fall possible, and there's no ground fall potential (or ground...). I don't think most people would bother with the Alien placement, either.
Excellent route. Agree with the comment about "for people struggling with 12a, it's a little runout". Probably none of the moves on it are 12a but endurance is a huge factor. The main runout for me is above bolt 5, although as Ted says the red alien does take the edge off of clipping bolt [5]. Seems like if you blow clipping bolt 6, you could fall 25' (I fell 20' from a little below the clipping hold), but as people note it's as clean as falls get and the bolts are where they should be. A couple of notes - down at the bottom before bolt 1 be careful about jug-hauling on the easy overhanging terrain, some of those big holds are hollow and would come off right in your face. The climbing is easy enough that it's possible to avoid pulling hard on them. Similarly up high (just below the last bolt below the anchors) there is at least one big hold out right that is not too solid. There appears to be a sporadic history of bolt replacement on this climb. Some of the bolts have been upgraded (most significantly the crux bolt 5 and bolt 4) while others (bolt 6 and one of the bolts lower down on the route, maybe bolt 2?) are less than confidence inspiring. Probably the re-equiping of this route should just be finished, but if nothing else it would be nice to replace bolt 6 since if it pulled you'd be going for a 50 footer.
Great route. One of the better routes I have been on lately. Holds are all really good but allow for the pump. Some of the bolt hangers are loose. Last bolt hanger in particular. River is running high which contributes to the excitement. Well worth it.
River Wall II
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