This is a very fine route. The rock is the second small buttress to the left of Hitler's Sex Life, identified by a steep slab that is slightly tilted to the right, and about 100 yards up the loose trail from the road. Four well-spaced bolts lead up and right on crimpers to a chain anchor. The first bolt is a bit off the deck and is a tip-toe reach from the stance (for me at 6'1").
Descent: I ran the rope through the anchor and lowered off, but it might be best to belay from the top and walk off to avoid rope drag. Also, the route would have to be climbed twice to clean it so keep this in mind.
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Apr 17, 2004 rating: 5.10a
It is possible to clean from the anchors, it just takes a little work. One of the jugs to the left of the first bolt creaked a little. Be careful yarding on it before you get the first clip.
Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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