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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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Initial Route 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Views: 249 page views

Submitted By: Scott Conner on Feb 17, 2002


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First pitch of Initial Route.


Description 

This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)

Descent: Walk off.


Protection 

Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers; long slings will be helpful to cut down on rope drag.



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Good look at the entire route.  Second pitch goes through the cleft right of the large slanted roof.

Good look at the entire route. Second pitch goes ...

Crux - first pitch.

Crux - first pitch.

Second following up the crux.

Second following up the crux.

Turning the arete - second pitch crux.

Turning the arete - second pitch crux.

finishing up the second pitch.  Nice climb!

finishing up the second pitch. Nice climb!


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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 13, 2003

This route is more like a one star in my mind. It has lots of lose gravely sections. The traverse pitch is probably the only worthwhile pitch on the route. It also feels a bit harder than 5.7.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005

I managed to lead this as one 60m pitch but it barely reached. I'm not sure I would recommend it. The rock quality definitely deteriorates toward the top.