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River Wall II
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Big Big Monkey Man 
Box, The 
Brother From Another Planet 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths 
Escape from Alcatraz 
Introducing Meteor Dad 
Le Diamant E'ternal 
Neurosurgeon 
New Horizon 
Pocket Hercules 
Red Neck Hero 

Escape from Alcatraz 

5.11b

   

FA: Please Add
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 337 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 20, 2001


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Description 

An interesting line that escapes from the pedestal jutting out of the river in the middle of River Wall. Reach the pedestal by rock hopping across the river (impossible in spring/summer), access the right side of River Wall and boulder to the pedestal (also tricky in spring) or rappel from the top. Note: place draws on one side of rope while rappeling so the rope doesn't get fall into the drink. Belay off the pedestal anchor bolt and either place protection or run it out to the first bolt. After the first bolt, insecure climbing reaches a layback and undercling flake. Tricky route finding above leads to 15 foot easy run-out terrain to the top - a protectable crack is slightly right of the last bolt. A solid, and fun thinking man's route.


Protection 

One bolt anchor on pedastal. Small nut or 0.5 tricam protects mantel that reaches 1st bolt. Five bolts to two bolt anchor atop. Somewhat runnout, but clean falls. Long slings (4+ feet) suggestable for setting up a toprope off the bolts which are back from the top of the cliff.



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By cameron
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.11

This is a great sport climb that is in fact tricky after the underclings. . . I traversed a bit right toward the crack and placed a small alien to keep from the 10+ RO. The second time I just ran it out. It is a thought-provoking line and feels a bit desperate for a move or two - though a fall wouldn't hurt ya too much I s'pose. 11a.