This short sport route is on the second buttress of Buick Rocks, ie above and left of Hitler's Sex Life formation (which is lower on the hillside to the right) and the right of the two Buick Rocks. This line is high on the right side (SW) of the second buttress, between two trad lines Pooh Belly (5.7 on the left) and Kiss Face (5.10b? on the right). A few tricky moves off the ground are protected well by the first bolt, but the climb remains fairly sustained through the third bolt.
Hubbel (Classic Rock Climbs Lyons Area) shows this as 10c/d, I'd say 10c. I really liked this route - a low crux that's kinda tricky leads to nice, sustained movement to a two-bolt rap.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Jul 15, 2007
A fun route - especially the beginning moves. The middle section has a reachy move which is easier for tall climbers, much harder for short climbers - which might explain the differences in ratings.
By goatboywonder From: Estes Park, CO Aug 13, 2009 rating: 5.10c
I agree that it felt a little harder than 10a, especially compared to Green Slab (9+). Then again, I also did it in a light rain. Opening moves are thin and getting the feet over the first roof was fun.
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