BETA PHOTO: Looking down the South Face at the Crocker Ranch f...
Description
This is a large, S-facing, mass of granite, just north of US 36, E of Estes Park, before Fish Creek Rd. It is easily seen from US 36 and draws the eye as you go past. Apparently the private Crocker Ranch below the cliff makes access difficult. Douglas Snively & Billy Westbay climbed a 5.11 roof route on the lower L side in the 1970s according to B. Gillett in his Rocky Mountain National Park, The Climber's Guide, Estes Park Valley printed in 2001. There seems little else documented in standard guidebooks for the area. I'm sure there has been other explorations....
Getting There
From Estes Park, drive E on US 36 just past Fish Creek Rd. It is visible on the N (L). From Denver/Lyons, drive W on US 36 until nearly into Estes Park. Look N (R). Exact and most-access friendly parking is not obvious. Clearer directions from the cognoscetti may avoid conflicts....
Addendum: currently legal access is not possible. Lisa Foster's hiking guidebook indicates all of the south face and 100m from the summit are private property.
WHOA! This rock should probably not be listed! The people that own the propery are [EXTREMELY] against anyone crossing their land. However, if you look at forest service maps, it appears that the rock itself is on federal lands. But the area right up to the base is apparently owned privately and they have reportedly told locals "no one will ever climb on those rocks". So there [definitely] needs to be some research done concerning property lines BEFORE anyone goes messing around up there. God damn it's sure a good looking rock though.....
Make sure to determine whether the cliffs on Mount Olympus are on public property before attempting a visit to this area. My understanding (after a limited search for good information) is that the Crocker Ranch may own the entire south side of Mt. Olympus. I've always wanted to pull the records at the county courthouse (I think that's where the necessary info is located) to find out where the property lines lie, but have never been ambitious enough to do it. The rock certainly looks good up there, but even if it is in the National Forest, access would likely be tricky. (A long hike up the forested north side of the mountain, beginning in Big Thompson Canyon, might work -- lots of private in-holdings to weave around, I think -- and there's a forest service road up on Pole Hill that I've hiked in an attempt to get a closer look at the cliffs, but it takes you away from the summit). Perhaps the Access Fund could help in tracking down the ownership of the cliffs, and the best pubilc access.
When Snively and Westbay climbed there in the 70s, they trespassed to reach the rocks (which, again, may be entirely on Crocker Ranch property).
Regarding a post I noticed a few weeks ago about Eagle Rock off of Dry Gulch Road (which seems to have been removed, probably because of the following): Eagle Rock is DEFINITELY PRIVATE and currently CLOSED TO CLIMBING. There was a change in the ownership between the 1st and 2nd editions of my guide that I was unaware of, and I received an email from the landowner informing me climbing is not allowed.
Like Bernard, I too have always wanted to find out more about the property boundary, but got only as far as visiting the front desk at the Forest Service office in town, and nobody there seemed to know anything about it. I did take a look at the map under the glass on the desk itself, and though it's not detailed enough to determine where the boundary lies, it appears that indeed the entire south face of the rock itself is actually owned by the ranch (although I have yet to see cows grazing up there). It's definitely a place I've always wanted to climb, and I find myself scoping out new lines every time I drive out of town towards Lyons.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 21, 2002
I put in this listing simply to try to dig up what other folks have found out or done at this siren-like rock. Delist if you think it's not legal to access it. I've just been so curious but didn't want to have to re-piss off some landowner if some climber already found out the scoop. Always looking to climb mo' rock....
The whole south face of Olympus is Crocker Ranch property and is off limits to climbers, period...unless you want an ass full of buckshot, don't even think about it.