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DescriptionAlso located west of Lyons, this area is cousin to the South Saint Vrain (SSV). Like the SSV there are both trad and sport routes on a variety of features. Rock quality varies from superb to choss. One of Buttonrock's centerpieces is the classic River Wall. This steep wall has steep cracks alongside of both technical and pumpy sport routes. Well-known climbers from Boulder and around the Front Range developed this area in the last three decades. The best climbing season is whenever it isn't precipitating, possibly year-round as the aspect of the formations is diverse. River Wall in particular has midday sun, but is often chilly due to breeze off the river. The Falcon guide to Lyons area covers both Buttonrock and the SSV. Getting ThereDrive to Lyons on Hwy 66, this can be reached via US 36 from Boulder. Continue past the junction in Lyons of US 36 and CO Hwy 7 (CO Hwy 7 takes one to the SSV) for about 3.7 miles. Look carefully on the left for a sign for Shelly's Cottages. Turn left here on County Road 80. One half-mile on the left are Entryway Slabs, another tenth of a mile are Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life. About 2.3 miles further one reaches a steel gate and parking. One can hike along the road to reach River Wall, Old Yellar, and other formations. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttonrock:
Green Slab 5.9+ Sport Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se...
The Buick 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se...
Introducing Meteor Dad 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet River Wall II
Escape from Alcatraz 5.11b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet River Wall II
Pocket Hercules 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet River Wall II
Redneck Hero 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet River Wall II
Neurosurgeon 5.12a R Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet River Wall II
Big Big Monkey Man 5.12b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch River Wall II
New Horizon 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet River Wall II
Old Yellar 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal 5.13b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet River Wall II
Featured Route For Buttonrock
Introducing Meteor Dad 5.10d CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : River Wall II
A nice technical climb up the right side of River Wall. Climbs the bolted face just left of the obvious chimney corner (the Box). Carefully reach the 1st bolt and attack the face above. Several catchy sections involve delicate feet to reach the next holds. Edgy, pumpy, delicate and fun....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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