Also located west of Lyons, this area is cousin to the South Saint Vrain (SSV). Like the SSV there are both trad and sport routes on a variety of features. Rock quality varies from superb to choss. One of Buttonrock's centerpieces is the classic River Wall. This steep wall has steep cracks alongside of both technical and pumpy sport routes. Well-known climbers from Boulder and around the Front Range developed this area in the last three decades. The best climbing season is whenever it isn't precipitating, possibly year-round as the aspect of the formations is diverse. River Wall in particular has midday sun, but is often chilly due to breeze off the river. The Falcon guide to Lyons area covers both Buttonrock and the SSV.
Getting There
Drive to Lyons on Hwy 66, this can be reached via US 36 from Boulder. Continue past the junction in Lyons of US 36 and CO Hwy 7 (CO Hwy 7 takes one to the SSV) for about 3.7 miles. Look carefully on the left for a sign for Shelly's Cottages. Turn left here on County Road 80. One half-mile on the left are Entryway Slabs, another tenth of a mile are Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life. About 2.3 miles further one reaches a steel gate and parking. One can hike along the road to reach River Wall, Old Yellar, and other formations.
Long, technical, steep, pumpy -- what more could you ask for? Old Yellar is a great granite route that's technical down low. Then, midway up, you enter a vicious undercling to enter the steep second half with a heartbreak crux at the end. It's well worth the short hike to get up there. ...[more]
There is some great bouldering in this area, the Lion's Den is a mere 20 minute hike up the slope opposite the River Wall. Many unclimbed rock still remains in the vicinity with Twin Dinosaurs (only one established problem, "Snott the Mamma" V4, just across a meadow from the Den).
This was the worst area yet! Approaches are long, long, long and boring. Encountered hostile, beer-swilling fishermen at the parking area; our car was vandalized. This was definitely a 'never-again' experience for us. With so much great rock along the Front Range, why would anyone waste their time in Lyons?
I have never found this to be the case, the Lion's Den area is very isolated (ok the approach includes hiking 1 1/2 miles up a steep draw), but the sheer quality and quantity of problems make for a great day of climbing.
If you hike up the road to the fork (porta-potty), there are some good/okay routes and many topropes across the river (east side) - you can't miss the large crag. Cross the river just above the pipe-gate heading toward the dam/res; some new route potential as well. Great place if you want true solitude.
Buttonrock
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