Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. You could, obviously, skip the runout first crux and start on these diagonal cracks. The route continues up and left from here into the shadows past two more bolts. The climbing is a bit harder, but only a bit runout. You'll want a red Camalot or thereabouts for after you turn the arete after the last bolt. Ziggie's Day Out (10d ***) follows these diagonal cracks out right to its crux at the bulge.
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