Perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof.
Start 200 feet around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station.
P1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance. Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100 feet.
P2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals.
P3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system.
Perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof. Start 200ft around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station. 1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance.Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100ft. 2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals. 3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system. 4. 200 ft of low 5th class to the summit. Standard rack.
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