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DescriptionThis is a sub-section of the Book, including routes on the climbers right of the Book and surrounding areas, including some routes featured on large boulders below the J-Crack Slab. The title route, J-Crack, is perhaps one of the most popular and classic climbs on all of Lumpy Ridge. This area also features such amazing climbs as Thindependence (5.10c), Loose Ends (5.9) and Pear Buttress (5.8). The final route included in this area to the climbers left would be Monkey on a String (5.12). See the Pages Wall Area for routes further left on the Book. Getting ThereHike as you would to the Book. Break right towards the base of the cliff. J-Crack looks just as it sounds- the area surrounding this climb is the J-Crack Slab. Several climbs also exist on large boulders below that include their own specific directions. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for J-Crack Slab Area:
Pear Buttress 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Endless Crack 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet
Femp 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Loose Ends 5.9 Trad, 5 pitches
J-Crack 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Mission Impossible 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches
The Cavity 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch
Visual Aids 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Thindependence 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch
Stretch Marks 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch
Fascist Drill in the West 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For J-Crack Slab Area
Pear Buttress 5.8 CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : J-Crack Slab Area
My favorite 5.8 in the world. It begins right where the approach trail ends. The climb starts at a clean flake just right of a broken area. P1: The flake can be climbed directly from the bottom (5.9 R), but the standard start is to climb up the slab right of the flake and step into it where it offers a perfect hand crack (5.7 w/ no pro for the first 20 ft.) One can avoid all these scary starts (but also some great climbing) by scrambling up ar...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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