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5.11 R

   

FA: Nate Arganbright, Jason Seaver 5-26-07
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Season: spring through fall
Views: 76 page views

Submitted By: jason seaver on Oct 4, 2008


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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Nate A on the FA of the original line. 5-26-07


Description 

Right of The Last Daze Of Pompeii, find an obvious, right-facing dihedral that ends at a roof 25' up. Gain this dihedral, negotiating the fallen dead tree however you like, and surmount the roof at a splitter little finger crack. At the horizontal crack (10' above the roof), move left to the right-leaning crack system. Follow this system for 25’ to where you could step right on a small ledge to join the Apocalyptic Lightning Storm. This is where the ground-up FA was forced to exit. But the originally envisioned, and eventually completed, line goes straight up. At this point, eschew the tempting ledge out right, and head straight up to a very shallow, right-facing flake which, after a couple cruxy moves, leads to a horizontal crack with good gear. Move 6' left on this horizontal to another vertical crack that peters out and leaves you with a couple sets of perplexing moves to get to the anchor.

On the proud ground-up effort, Nate bailed right into Apocalyptic Lightning Storm. Only after toprope rehearsal did I successfully lead the originally envisioned line on 8-9-08. So, this line could certainly be considered a headpoint.


Location 

To the right of The Last Daze Of Pompeii is a right-facing corner capped by a small roof 25’ off the ground. The start is somewhat guarded by a fallen dead tree.


Protection 

Standard rack, including RP's and offset nuts, up to hand sized cams. The key piece before the crux runout was an offset nut (brassie) for me.
Two-bolt lower-off anchor.