A superb thin crack pitch, and the testpiece of the crag. With full knowledge of the potential bias of first ascentionists, I suggest this is one of the best single pitches of thin crack-work on Lumpy Ridge.
At the base of the left side of the crag there are two rectangular recesses. Just right of these features find a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this corner, and cracks angling left, up to the orange overlap. Move right under the overlap then launch up into the right-angling, thin crack above. At the first horizontal crack, move left to a short crack, take it to another horizontal, move left again and make one more set of moves to the two-bolt lower-off anchor.
After several falls on ground-up efforts, we resorted to a toprope session. Nate and I both succeeded on redpoint attempts on the next visit.
Location
Start down and right of the rectangular recesses at the bottom of the left side of the cliff, at a shallow left-facing dihedral.
Protection
Standard rack, with plenty of small stoppers, and cams up to hand-sized. Two-bolt lower off anchor.
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