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Bellyflop 

5.10c

   

FA: Eli Helmuth, 2001
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 458 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 24, 2003


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Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; moving ...


Description 

Start as for Backflip, but climb the flake system immediately to the left. This initial flake can be protected with four medium-sized cams; the leader can scope out the required pro from the ground. Work left onto the slab and follow four bolts to the top. The climbing is delicate and sustained.

The two-bolt anchor is on a good ledge. The leader can bring up the second, or rappel/lower 95' back down. The leader should extend the anchor with a cordalette or long slings if they are going to rappel or lower and belay the second from the ground.

Bellyflop can be top-roped after leading the first 100' of Backflip (5.8+). One could also climb the gully right of Backflip to access the top anchor. Be sure to extend the anchor if you are going to top-rope.


Protection 

Four gear placements (medium cams) and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



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Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; at the third bolt.

Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; at the ...


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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2003

...We got down with a single 60m rope with about 5 feet to spare.

If you lead Backflip, traverse over to the Bellyflop anchor, and then try to lower, I could see where a 60m rope wouldn't make it. A straight rappel down Bellyflop (or a lower after leading Bellyflop) is doable with one 60m rope.

A note on the pro: the leader in our group placed two medium wired nuts, a #2 Camalot, and a #1 Friend to protect the starting flake.

By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Mar 22, 2004

I did this for the first time yesterday, great pitch. For some reason I had it in my head that it was 10a, you can imagine my dismay when passing the second bolt, I thought for sure I was off. I managed it, but was glad to see it's called 10c. I've heard people say it's harder since the first ascent, maybe somthing busted off. Still, a great pitch that's pretty sustained and fun.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d

I thought the one-move crux was quite thin and warranted a 10d rating. High quality crack and face climbing. Nice route.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a

The bottom crack was great fun but I'd love to see Eli lead this in his approach shoes - I thought the top around the third bolt was very thin. Maybe something has changed over the years?

By Eli Helmuth
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c

Curt, I don't mind being called a girl, just don't call me Sarah Palin.
The LaSportiva B5's are my favorite for edging, the 5.10 guide tennies for friction and the Nike AGCs seem to friction just as well and last longest. Boreal are always great and I haven't tried the Scarpas yet.
Cool conditons help in this summertime hot spot.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.11a

Sorry Eli I have realized my mistake there - I actually talked to someone who knew you and informed me of my stupidity... it was way hot when I tried this - my mountain boots would have edged better. I bet Sarah couldn't get up the thing! Peace.