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Batman Rock
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Clowntime is Over 

5.9

   

FA: Bill Wylie, c. 1980
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length:  Grade II
Views: 877 page views

Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001


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Note, some of these cliffs are often closed (Mar 3 - July 31) for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

Both cruxes are visible in this photo. Scory's on...


Description 

Truly a wacky, original route! Hike up to Batman rock, scramble up to the center of the cliff (just right of a vertical, reddish wall) and find a long chimney formed by a rock which sits in [front] of the main face. Go through the chimney and belay on top of the rock.

P1-Lean across the chimney (unzip your fly first), and balance onto a small stance on the main cliff. Go up a flake on the left, and wander left up a slab to a belay 20 ft. below the low point of a long roof band.

P2-Hike up to the low point, place a few pieces, and feel blindly to the right for the appropriate jug. Once over it, have a good laugh and then turn the next 5.9 roof, or bypass it more easily to the left. Continue to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson AZ
Jan 1, 2001

The chimney where the route starts is "long" horizontally: you walk through it. The scary first pitch is only 5.6-5.7.

By Mike Sofranko
Jun 14, 2001

If you're a coward like me, downclimb partway (a few feet) into the chimney before stepping/stemming across... Slightly less committing.

By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001

Or if you're a coward like me, start a little to the right of the gaping cleft, which is a lot less [committing]. Also, I was surprised (although I shouldn't have been since it's Batman Rock, after all) that there's no pro for 20 feet after pulling the roof, however the climbing is pretty easy. And while the roof itself has good holds (once you find them - it definitely helps to be tall), falling while pulling yourself over it will most likely result in a broken ankle or two since the slab below it is so low angle and your gear is nowhere near the roof's lip.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 22, 2002

I don't think a fall from the lip would be that serious. It does have potential, but the fall would be short, and with a relaxed leader and an attentive belayer the threats are greatly minimized.

Also, my memory might be a little hazy since I climbed it 5 years ago, but I think I remember a #1 Metolius TCU placement that is closer to the lip in a small crack up and to the left of the "low point." This would also help reduce the risk of a serious fall.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.10-

Since your gear is below the roof at the under-cling against the wall, you'd get sucked in and pulled into the wall. Probably safe, but a lot of broken ankles and wrists seem to happen this way in common "freak" accidents...
This climb is arm-length-dependent more so than height-dependent, but we all know that they correlate. Shorter climbers and most women are challenged to reach the under-cling and the jug over the roof in one span. And the climb gets exponentially harder with the further they have to deadpoint- especially since the hold is blind.
In 1995, my 5'4" partner, a 5.10 climber just got flat-out rejected.

By Agent Chumley
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008

Just after the roof, one can sling a patch (not quite a chicken-head) on the left with a long sling and runner for some mental security. Sling it correctly and I bet it would hold. Best not to find out, though. Watch out for some kitty litter in the vicinity. The Gillett guide cover has some inspiration for pulling the roof - if you need it.

By C Tirrell
From: Fort Collins, Co
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.9+

I'd give this one .9+ if you're short, like me, and can't reach the jugs easily. Tried it for about 20 minutes, climbing up and down. Finally busted some hard moves with both feet cut to reach the jugs and mantle over. Stimulating!