Climb of the Ancient Mariner 

While it is true that the meat of the climb is bolted, it is important to note that this is not a sport climb. Gear is needed on the first half of the first pitch and for the second belay. I know of at least one party that thought they didn't need gear after the first pitch and the leader was left with nothing but a knot to use for belay anchors at the top of the second pitch.

That's an interesting story about the knot belay, but I would like to point out that I've clearly noted all the places where gear is required, particularly for the belay anchor (unless you think a hand crack at Lumpy might have bolts on it!)

As someone who'd climbed a heck of a lot more sandstone than granite, in 1995 when I did this route, I found the roof to be 5.8 and the bolted face to be sustained 5.10. I was simply not prepared to smear and crimp like that [on] a 5.10a!

Without a doubt my favorite Lumpy climb! Fantastic setting, slabbing up the second pitch. The move over the roof is only hard mentally, leaving the security of the crack for invisible holds above; but they're there. As a few others have said, this is definitely NOT !!! a "sport route". The first clip after the hanging belay at the end of the first pitch is a good 25-30' out. After that, the next 5 clips are reasonable and right where you really need them, but there is a 35-40' runout on more moderate climbing to get to the 6th bolt (an old 1/4" tin-foil hanger) and then another 20' to your first gear placement! Overall, I think the rating may be a little high but I love slabs and the 10a probably comes in the "pucker factor" for someone expecting a mellow sport route.

This route went before the bolts and Rossiter retroed it? I personally think the crux is just after the first belay. It is stellar, though.

Brent, I understand that Doug Snively pulled this roof with a client in the 70's. After heading up the unprotected face he moved right into Sorcerer. Nothing like a little adventure climbing with a client in tow! As we all know Doug Snively rocks!

When this route first went up, local legend and all around hard guy, Doug Snively said he climbed this route years before it had been bolted. (he assured everyone that he was pleased to see the bolts in now). It seems he was with a client and went up the first pitch belaying below the roof. He then pulled the roof, cruised up the face before heading right and belaying..... All of us who know Doug know he isn't spraying.

Climbed this beauty on 4/26/03 and I'm happy to report someone has replaced the final bolt, and done a nice job of it. It's still a long way between clips but they're all good.

While the runout leaving the hanging belay to the first bolt of the second pitch is long and somewhat unnerving, it is definitely NOT the crux (maybe 5.8+). The crux is right after the first bolt on the face (not the roof bolt) and seems reasonably rated at 10a to me. The roof itself is quite easy (although I'd go with 5.9-, rather than 5.8), but after turning the roof, that next bolt is a good 15-20 feet away, which I found a little "unnerving." One of my favorite climbs at Lumpy--DO IT!

This 1991 classic has gotten a bit thinner over the years... tiny flakes and mini huecos have broken off into little stubby edges and more dished out friction/foot holds. 10b ish above 1st pitch, 2nd bolt. Pitch 2: definitely "old school 5.9 and R to 1st clip...Loving it ,SK.

This thing is spicy! The whole thing is on dime edges with small positive crimps. Certainly not for the aspiring 5.10 leader (not unless you do not fear the whip, 20-30 footers, that is).

My bro and I climbed this on 07/11/03. Fantastic climb! I thought the moves directly after the roof to be the crux, solid 5.10. The runouts were exciting, but the moves are not bad. I wouldn't do this unless you are a very solid 5.10 face climber and not bothered by run outs at this level. Lumpy rules!!

Sweet. I felt the crux of this route was above the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch. The moves seemed thinner here than anything on the first pitch.

The whole slab is about 200' long and counting the belay anchor, there are 9 bolts on it. Do the math... definitely not a sport climb. Exciting!

First shot at Mariner the other day. I would agree with most that crux comes after the roof going through two bolts to the anchor. Stellar slab climbing past a line of (bomber) bolts that are spaced farther apart the higher you go. Small pucker factor, huge fun. One a the best on Lumpy IMHO. Cheers...

The second pitch has no move harder than 5.9, though it's a bit runout getting to the first bolt from the belay. It is sustained 5.9 slab climbing; you have to constantly think throughout the pitch. It does not let up until you are finished. The bolts are placed where they need to be; however, they are thinly spaced. The climber should have a head for runout slab climbing (hint, hint: think South Platte).

I followed the first pitch and led the second, and, I thought the crux was on the first pitch between the top of the roof and the bolted anchor. This, in my opinion, is where the climb gets the 5.10 rating.

Climb of the Ancient Mariner is by far one of the finer 5.10 climbs at Lumpy Ridge. You get everything from hand jams, roof, slab climbing, great position, and an incredible setting. All things considered, this is not a sport climb as there is nothing 'sporty' about it.

This is such a great, great route! The runout from the hanging belay to the first bolt is long. While the climbing is easy at that point, I would have to say that a fall onto the anchors could be ..... serious!!

On both pitch the crux comes between bolt #2 & #3.
The section from the hanging belay to the 1st bolt on pitch 2 is fairly easy if one follows the obvious quartzite dike that leads to the bolt. Getting to the 1st bolt this way isn't any more difficult than the runnout to the last bolt at the end of the pitch.