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Near the end of the first pitch.
Description
A classic thin corner climb, quite representative of Lumpy Ridge. Hike to the Bookmark, and walk around to the east of a massive, 100 ft. high "flatiron" that leans up against it. The route is identified by a very large, right-facing dihedral/roof on the uppper third of the face.
P1-the goal is to achieve a much smaller dihedral down and slightly right of the larger dihedral. Pick a groove (5.9) or a wide, brushy crack (5.7), both of which are up almost behind the flatiron (right of an impressive wide flake), and which lead into easier flakes that in turn [achieve] the desired location. A better but longer start is to do the first 2 pitches of Backflip to the right.
P2- starting from a good ledge, lieback a sustained, flared right-facing corner (not to be confused with the corner of Backflip 20 ft. to the right) which first jogs right and then back left. Stretch the lead all the way into a ledge in the bottom of the upper dihedral (crux, with enough pro to keep you going--save a medium Friend for the 5.10 bulge halfway up).
P3-A full ropelength up the very flared crack (tricky pro) in the large dihedral; undercling out to the right at the end, or turn the 5.10 roof and go to the summit (full rope-length either way). Sustained 5.9.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Nov 6, 2001 rating: 5.10b
You know, I just want to add that this is one of the nicest cragging routes I have done in a long time. It's one of the better routes at Lumpy, in my book.
If [combined] with the direct start described in Klingon [certainly] in the Lumpy top ten . I did the 1st ascent of this route in the late 70s then I climbed it last year. I would rerate the crux pitch closer to 5.10c [than] a. The final pitch is 5.10a and a little "ballsy" with small RP pro.
This is a great climb. One of the two or three best for the grade that I've done in the Front Range. I think 10a is pretty much right on as a technical grade, though the gear is tricky and not overly abundant... basically not a climb for someone breaking into 5.10. Be prepared for long sections of sustained 5.9 liebacking where you'll find that it's much easier to run it out than try to dick in marginal gear from poor stances. The direct finish protects, but the pro is not exactly where you might want it... be solid if you try this variation since you'll probably smack the slab below if you fall.
One of the best 10a's in the Front Range (and elsewhere for that matter).
We were in fact just breaking into 5.10 when we got on this route, thinking 10a. My partner, Mike Flannagan, on-sighted the crux pitch in impeccable style and somehow I managed to clean it without hanging, too! But it was definitely harder than we anticipated and I would agree with a 10c upgrade. Strenuous fingertip liebacks with tricky gear placements (RPs, Aliens) from strenuous stances. I then led P2 and would rate that sustained 5.9+, but I don't think it warrants upgrade to 10a.
Hard for a Gunks climber used to horizontal holds! No move harder than 10a, but much harder to lead. Good, but small rests on the crux section until the last few moves where you have to go for it, but it eases off quickly. The first of the two crux dihedrals is very well protected. Bring a 2.5 Friend for the one place the crack opens up. Plus brass, microcams, some big nuts. I got the smallest micro Camalot (red) straight up prior to the last hard moves. I also got the yellow micro Camalot higher than that, but that was really dumb and way too much work.
I was surprised that there was more hard climbing in another dihedral after the crux bulge. A bit easier, but smoother with no real rest, and the gear is a little further apart and not quite as good as the first dihedral. Once again, I stopped in the wrong place, prior to the last few moves, and expended way too much effort getting a piece in.
For the belay, bring some hand-sized cams to place in the corner to the left. Else the gear would be marginal.
Thought P2 was hard, following that pitch. Some bad rock and runouts. Maybe tired.
We carried and used most of this nuclear arsenal: Triple micronuts including Astros, HB offsets, steelRed and blue Ballnuts. Single bigger nuts, Triple microcams to finger sized including hybrid Aliens and offset Friends. Doubles above that to hand-sized.
Did the climb 3OCT04 using [Kimball's] guide so I had the expectation of it being 5.9 and felt like it was 5.9, but the pro was thin. Didn't have the correct size cam for middle of P3 I think a green Camalot would have worked, so I threw in a 1 or 2 HB near by. Nice route.--Ross
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Oct 10, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Another good approach pitch for this climb is a new mixed route just left of Virgin Springs. Following a thin flaring crack until it ends, then step left to 4-5 bolts on some fun slab/face climbing (5.10c). You will need to do some 5.4 down climbing to the right to step up the belay for the second pitch.
Make sure you have a triple set of small nuts for the second pitch. There is a no hands rest right before the crux.
This route is a three-pitch gem. P3 has a 15-foot flared runout (very nice climbing) with great gear below and above...definitely not an "s" but a little heady nonetheless.
A really great way to increase the quality on the first pitch is to do Bellyflop (10c)... you can either clip the bolt anchor and continue to the base of the second pitch (rope drag) or belay from the bolts and move the belay (short 5.easy pitch). Highly recommended, a good way to get 'warmed up' for the runout climbing above!
Phew. I'm glad people agree about the tricky pro on P3. It's a thin, flared crack that has some small nut placements but it's hard to fannagle while in a lieback position, with your feet precariously smearing the rock, and then it starts raining on you... I wouldn't give it an "R" or "S" by any means, but "tricky pro" is an appropriate description.
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