Don Quixote 

FA:  Eli Helmuth 5/08 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 238 page views Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Jun 2, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Quixote is the red line which joins the blue line ...

Description 

This crack pitch diagonals in from the right to join the bolted anchor of the first pitch of the Caldwell route, Dulcinea on the Renaissance Wall. It starts on easy ground to a very thin crack which starts the diagonal bit of climbing. RPs protect the first 12a crux which eases off before joining the big ledge/flake which is the far right side of the same ledge which Dulcinea touches on its left side. The ledge is a welcome rest but also detracts from the star quality of the climb.

Now for the meat of the route: With slings on top of the large horn, step-off the horn into a left-hand undercling to reach right to decent crimps. After this scary move, great gear through this steep section eases the pain of slapping an angling rail to opposing slopers and a short run-out to rp's and then bigger gear and some sustained climbing to the anchor.

This route took me a couple of seasons and many attempts to master- tough for me compared to climbs of The Wasp, Renaissance Wall, and El Camino Real which I found all to be much easier. Grade confirmation (or denial) will be interesting to see as I tried this pitch too many times to have a realistic idea of the onsight grade?
The Renaissance Wall is likely the most overlooked of the best walls in the Front Range....

Location 

Starts 30' down and right of Dulcinea which is the first bolted pitch you come to on the Renaissance Wall. Rappel 25 meters from the Dulcinea anchor or finish up on the 12a classic second pitch of Dulcinea for a fully trad two pitch line. Or improve the effort by linking both into the ultimate 55m, 12+ crack route at Lumpy?

Protection 

A full rack from #2 Camalot to multiple RPs are helpful. The #2 is the first piece above the flake/ledge and a #0.3 Camalot protects the upper crux well with a solid #0.75 below there to keep one from grazing the upward pointed flake below -I took this whipper many times!