Bart's Way 

FA:  Goldstein & Calkins 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  80 feet Views: 310 page views Submitted By: david goldstein on Oct 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 3-July 31: Twin Owls Bat Flake Batman Pinnacle Batman Rock Lightning Rock Checkerboard Rock Thunder Buttress The Parish For more information, go to the NPS website: http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Bart Calkins at Shelf Road

Description 

In memoriam Bart Calkins (1947-2007).

An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.

Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.

The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.

Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.

Location 

On the wall which forms a corner just to the left of Shinbuster, there is an obvious, diagonaling crack/corner which passes a mouth-shaped pod. Bart's Way follows this feature, starting a ways downhill of the start of Shinbuster and ending above the vicinity of the start of Shinbuster.

Protection 

Standard Lumpy rack mostly small-medium nuts and fingerish cams.