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TST in the middle, Arch Crack can be seen on the r...
Description
This route is the very obvious, low angle hand to mild off-width crack located on the left side of the crag. It is located just right of the large right facing dihedral and the line heads straight for the balanced rock at the summit.
Traverse up and right across easy gound to the start of the crack. Not much to say after this... climb the crack that is hands for most of it with a couple moves of tricky, but mild off-width (protects [easily] with #3.5 Camalot). When you hit the steep headwall going up to the true summit, traverse/walk right and belay near the walk off. Walk off to the east.
[There is a direct, brief, 5.7 finish that easily connects with the standard walkoff.]
If there were additional pitches to this, or if the walk off didn't suck so badly, I would've given it 3 stars.
Protection
Standard rack - double up on hand-sized cams if you are comfortable at the grade.
The steep headwall is a nice way to finish the route. The 10-15 foot crack up the headwall is 5.7. With a 60m rope you can do all of TST in one pitch and belay on a pedestal at the top of the headwall. From the pedestal you can scramble off and join the normal descent route.
The first time I tried this route I just heard it was a great solo, so I gave it a shot. The first pitch is a bit dirty, but when the traverse comes, the climbing is clean and very enjoyable. Although the crack is flared (lumpy ridge standard), the jams are totally solid and not too painful. The only problem that most folks have is that pain [in] the butt descent. There are possible rap stations, but they are not the best and a 60m rope will still require some downclimbing, possibly 5th class.
My favorite Lumpy 5.6. Solid hand jams all the way up. A better start is to start down and [right] in the chimney that leads to Arch Crack (5.6) Once to the top of the chimney follow the arching hand crack to the left where it joins the upper Tennis Shoe Tango. This will have to be broken into two pitches due to length and rope drag.
...I totally agree this is the more enjoyable way to do this climb and then finish with the 5.7 headwall crack. The cracks here don't seem to flare as much as a lot of Lumpy climbs making for solid pro placements.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado May 13, 2005
Another variation that may add some quality is to take the crack/groove & LFD 10 ft to the right of the chimney start for TST. 62m to the top doing this var & the 5.7 var.
My partner Russ and I climbed this fine route on 9-27-07 We started in the Right Chimney, did the lower traverse below Arch Crack, then tackled the entire 5.6 crack. Really fun climb with lots of good gear. #4 Camalot came in handy more than once. If you're a beginning trad leader, do this climb; compares to Batman Pinnacle as far as difficulty goes.
My partner, Bee, found the climb to be rather off-width--in retrospect, I did use a lot of off-width technique (a hint is when you break out the #4 cam). However, jams (hand and fist) were solid; heel-toe technique felt great; pro was delightful. Unfortunately, the descent ruined the climb--it was miserable! Off-width scrambling, scree, slippery bushes--yuck. If there was a clear rappel route, I would sing the praises of this climb; as it stands, I would say only do it if everything (and I mean everything) else is busy.
Lens Rock
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