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ian boyer 2nd pitch of outlander
Description
Outlander is a fantastic, steep 2-pitch route at the top of the Book, with varied climbing. Start with any of the 3-4 pitch routes that lead up to the Cave area. Most people do Cheap Date and then the final pitch of Outlander, but P1 of Outlander is comparable to Cheap Date.
It is most expedient to belay on a ramp down and left from the Cave in a little alcove, with some blocks and loose flakes.
P1-climb up into the prominent left-trending arch (the significant dihedral left of the Cave) above the ramp/alcove, using a short, funky 5.9 crack. Follow the arch, interesting 5.9, to a little alcove beneath a beautiful finger crack which rises out of a small roof. Climb that (sustained 5.10b) and belay on a low-angle slab.
P2 (5.10c) - go easily up the slab and mantle onto a platform beneath the final steep headwall. Hand traverse left into a pod (3.5 Friend helpful in the pod, to free up a good jam), rest, and finish up with thin hands and then fingers to the top of the Book.
Descend by scrambling down grooves, 4th class, to join the normal descent from the Cave area. Or take the long walk-off as described.
Protection
Standard rack; #3.5 Friend helpful on P2. Lots of small stuff for P1.
Pitch 2 is pretty burly and called 10d in most guides. I'd agree, I found it to be super taxing on lead but I think since I had just followed Cheap Date, I had lie-backing on the brain and ended up missing a few good jams. Either way the gear is good and the moves are really fun, [good] way to finish any trip to this part of the Book.
The second pitch of outlander is most definitely 10d. There are a couple really precarious moves to some steep bomber finger locks but those whole thing is pretty sustained.
By Jeff Giddings From: Fort Collins Nov 21, 2005 rating: 5.10d
The first pitch felt much harder than other 10b routes I've done at Lumpy. Way harder than Cheap Date, Visual Aids, or Romulan. Good pitch though.
No way the 2nd pitch is 10d. The holds and jams are too positive. The feet might suck in a few areas but I think 10c would be more accurate.
A great way to reach this climb is by taking Thindependence (10c) to the 10b traverse into J Crack (9). Then take the 5.2 crack to the left below the cave for a good belay. The link up is worthy of 1 million stars.
Like a lot of people, the first time I got on this route I did the second pitch, after doing Cheap Date. Did the first pitch yesterday and found it to be way cool. I think the crux is shorter than Cheap Date, and easier to protect. I think it's a great pitch but easier than Cheap Date or Visual Aids. Keep your smallest micro cams or RPs for after the roof. I used mine up on the beautiful 5.9 section below and nearly soiled my drawers after I pulled the roof and had nothing to fit the beautiful but tiny crack. The yellow C3 Camalot (which is about like a green Alien) is too big to go in until you get past the hardest climbing. A Metolius 00 or the smallest C3 would go nicely and reduce the risk of a potentially serious ledge fall.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jul 6, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d
Link these pitches with (P1) Thindependence 5.10c, (P2) Visual Aids 5.10b, and (P3) Loose Ends 5.9 for a great, 5.10, thin crack outing on the Book.
P1: I'm tall so the 10b didn't feel as hard as say Fat City.
P2: I stuffed the 3.5 at the pod, did a lay back into the upper section and went to the top w/o other gear. This was not my plan but once I got into the layback I was hesitant to pull in to look for placements, I hadn't paired down the rack, doh! Anyway I'm wondering now if I could have decked if I came off at the top? Thankfully the climbing was straightforward.
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