Summer Festival 

FA:  Hidetaka and Mishiko Suzuki, 1983 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 236 page views Submitted By: jason seaver on Feb 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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John Tormalehto following the Festival. 12-9-06

Description 

Climb the OJ corner up to the roof and battle out the crack in the right side of the roof. The roof is somewhere around 18 feet long and starts with thin fingers and ends with a crux offwidth section turning the lip. I’ve seen it done a few different ways, so I won’t attempt to give technique beta, but I do suggest checking out the equipment beta.

Location 

This pitch takes the crack out the right side of the Orange Julius roof (the huge, orange triangular roof 60 feet above the ground in the center of the crag).

Protection 

Including cams for the anchor, I would carry a set of wires, a couple thin finger-sized cams, a couple thin-hands-sized cams, two #3 Camalots, one #4 Camalot, two #5 Camalots, and one #3 Bigbro. The Bigbro can take the place of one of the #5 Camalots. After turning the lip, keeping the rope from getting stuck in your gear in the roof is a distinct problem. The solution we found was to use the Bigbro, or one of the big cams, placed upside down at the lip to direct the rope out and around the cams back under the roof. This worked out pretty well for us.
You can belay from cams 30 feet above the lip, then continue with Orange Julius , or you can belay and rap from slings at the end of OJ’s 2nd pitch. One 60 meter rope will get you down from there.