Osiris 

This is a great route to collect booty gear on. Not a recommended route when hung-over.

Fun climb! It does seem fairly sustained, but the protection was excellent, which is always nice. The fact that I wasn't feeling too strong that day and that it was my first time climbing the route led me to fire in pieces every two or three feet in places. The downclimb is easy to find if you follow the description in the guidebook, but it seemed harder to us in spots than 4th class.

This route sucks. I had to bail off of the first pitch last year and came back for vengance a few weeks ago. The best part of the climb is definitely the first pitch, if you stay out of the chimney. Other than that, the route doesn't deserve a single star.

The first pitch is ok, the rest of the pitches besides the short 2nd pitch are fun, moderate and exciting...... I think you were off route dude or you only enjoy chimney/offwidth and the famous Lumpy slabby crack climbing is not for you...... it's a great introduction to the Lumpy style of climbing.....very popular so I'd avoid it unless you get there in the winter (I did it early February) or during the week.

I've heard fairly mixed reviews of this route also. Some people love it, some well, think it sucks. I did it a long time ago, and didn't like it very well.

Damn, dude, go easy on that little girl! I found Osiris to be excellent - a perfectly typical Lumpy route at a moderate grade, and therefore not for everyone. Lacking only some runout, I think this route is a perfect intro to the first-class climbing experience that is Lumpy Ridge.

Rossiter's guidebook attributes the FA to Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson in 1964.

It's actually not a bad route, I just didn't have much fun on it. Maybe I was having a weird day. Also there was the time (on pitch 3 I think) that for some reason I didn't realize you could use two of the flared cracks at once, and had been climbing only one of them, making it feel quite hard for 5.7. If I were to recommend a nice big 5.7 though, it would be Kor's Flake without a doubt. Ok enough babbling from me for now.

Fun route. There's no tree on the first belay ledge. Pitches 1 and 4 are hard with a pack on. Easy to combine P4&5 with a 60-m rope.

Wow, I can't believe I've missed this argument for so long! I don't see how anyone can say this route sucks--definitely second only to Kor's Flake among Lumpy 5.7s. The first pitch is the best--particularly if you stay IN the chimney as much as possible. The third pitch is most enjoyable if you climb the cracks right of the corner and then take the clean hand crack over the bulge.

Indeed, a great tour of Lumpy offerings - grunty chimney, thought provoking crack...and did anyone else throw a sling around the Fang and belay off that unique feature (never forget when I came over the lip on the third pitch after the cracks - my partner Sean had lead and was riding the Fang like a bucking bronco - it necessitated a photo)?

Are you sure you all were on the right route?? Osiris is one of the classics in Colorado! The first pitch is definately the best--but, there is so much to this climb...slab, crack, offwidth (I know, sounds crazy, but I enjoy them, great belays at almost every pitch! Avoid it on the weekends.

I think the route is a little odd. I've done it twice, and even rescued someone off of it once. In any case, it flares in spots, it has some less-than perfect rock, and route finding can be less than obvious.

At its grade, it tends to be a Lumpy-Intro for a lot of less experienced climbers. I can understand why its grade and quality would thus be a topic of much debate.

Personally, I'd give it 1-2 *'s because it can't hold a candle to Turnkorner, Romulan Territory, J-Crack or Pear Buttress.

As an example of what Tony is talking about: my friend loathed the offwidth (!!) on P1. From there on out the climb was "of a lessor" quality in his eyes...

Pitch lengths/discussion: P1 is about 150 feet to the ledge. P2 should be led long, past the tree and up the ramps to the nice stance just below the big RF dihedral. This gets you to the fang in about 150 feet again. You can link P4 and P5 (it makes the most sense) at about 164.5 feet.

FWIW, I'd give this route 1.5 stars in my book.

I think a lot of the discussion on the "quality" of this route has to do with what type of routes people prefer. I personally like a clean crack on a face or in a dihedral, and a lot of the climbing on Osiris is not that clean. Sorry to add yet another comment on this topic.

About the descent: we went SE and found a clear trail. No downclimbing, no steep gullies, no hassles. 35 minutes back to the car (without returning to base of climb)

We climbed it on a beautiful Sat AM with no people -- just get there early.

The tree belay ledge at the end of the normal second pitch is just over 195 feet off the ground. So when you get up to it and the rain pours in on you, you can escape with two 60m ropes and rap to the ground. If you only had one rope or two 50m ropes you should be able to rap to the first belay ledge and then rap again to the anchors for Georges Tree route below and to the right of the first belay ledge.

Osiris is the first route I did at Lumpy, and I thought it was great. Accidentally linked the first two pitches looking for a ledge with a "tree"(the correct ledge doesn't have one). Just barely made it with a 60. Also linked the last two to make it a three pitch climb. The best part is definitely the two cruxes over the bulges on pitches 2 and 3, not really hard but committing for a 5.7. There is a really easy walk off described in Rossiter's guidebook: walk straight off the back of the summit over a slab and into a saddle, then follow the obvious trail to the right down to the Twin Owls trailhead. It is really easy and doesn't even have any 4th class! Don't take it if you stashed gear at the base though because you end up almost at the parking lot.

Great climb! As someone else has noted, pitch two can be stretched out another 30 feet or so above the ledge with the tree. Continue up and left to a small (but decent) ledge at the base of the right facing corner, start p3 from here.

Also, we were a bit confused about where the route goes at the start of pitch 4. We ended up going pretty much straight up some short steep cracks, and there is no way that it was 5.7 climbing (seemed much harder than anything we did on the first 3 pitches). Looking at a topo after the fact it seems like we were closer to George's Tree than Osiris. Some folks told us we needed to work a bit further to the left after topping out on pitch 3. Anybody got some advice on this section?

My first Lumpy climb!! It was a weird climb for the first 2 pitches in that I was not used to offwidth techniques felt very strenous for 5.7, pitch 3 next to the right facing corner and up and over the bulge was a lot of fun, my favorite. The pitch from the fang was steep, I had to switch cracks a couple of times which was fun. That being said I don't think I would ever climb this again, but I am glad to have done it.

As if this route needs any more comments...oh well, I'm bored. I've done the first pitch two different ways: one is pure chimney style--which feels very hard for 5.6, and not to mention long, two is face climbing--which makes this much more enjoyable. There are a couple sections where you just have to do some chimney action (the first bulge 20 ft off the ground) to keep this ticked in at 5.6, but these arent bad. climbing the face to the left of the chimney feels 6ish, and is never desperate. The easiest line took me farther left (5-8 ft off the crack) than I wanted to be, and gear was sometimes a stretch to place (deep in the chimney at times), but was never really a problem. Save a couple larger pieces for the belay--3 to 4 FR or equivalent hexes work perfect. The third pitch is superb!! Fairly sustained, but with good rests between the tough sections, and always well-protected. The easiest line for me seemed to follow the cracks to the right of the RF dihedral. This pitch eats medium stoppers--doubles are nice. the "headwall" above is truly excellent, and not too hard. One can layback, jam, and stem the double cracks thru this section--the jams are sinker. P4 is interesting. Getting on top of the fang is a little funky, but the moves off the fang for the next 15 ft. are downright weird! The protection is just alright, and everything seems to be loose and sketchy. My partner and I thought this was harder (pychological, mostly) then the 5.7 bulge above, and definitely less straightforward. RE: this bulge, Gillett says it's a "bulge with a wide crack, 5.7"--its not really wide, you can sink great handjams, and the moves are sick!! very fun. This is a fine climb with two long pitches--the third pitch should not be missed! If you have a bad experience with the first pitch (which has definite potential for being a hell-raiser, although I enjoyed it), I could see how you could loathe the rest of the route.

'Osiris' was my introduction to 'The Book'. It's awesome and I suggest it. It accepts terrific gear.

I think there are better 5.7s out there. YMMV.

Either I really suck at chimneys, which I probably do, or the first pitch of Osiris is way underrated. I always have a terrible time with this first pitch. Because of that, I do the first long pitch of George's Tree. The climbing is more difficult, sustained 5.9, but it's more positive than Osiris's first pitch IMO.

OK, at the risk of getting hammered by my Estes Park buddies, I am going out on a limb here...

This route is....and always has been a worm driving pile of crap. There I said it! I don't know why it gets any stars! If you want to climb a route in this grade range avoid this one like the plague and head straight over to the Left Book.

But I am a sport climbing weenie!

Aw, c'mon, how many sport routes have cool butt seats like in Scott Conner's photo? That alone is worth one star!

Clean chimney, quality thrutching, finger cracks, hand cracks, stepping off the fang, a bigger 5.7 than the left book routes, it deserves at least two stars. Great intro to the steeper Lumpy routes. Left Book is quality, too, though. Stephan, I think you are afraid to stick your body parts into those cracks. There's only the occasional rabid critter in there, you'll be fine, just go! xoxoxo -c

Did it Saturday. Had perfect weather and really liked it. Maybe I'm just used to Lumpy adversity.

Tried climbing it on Sunday (7-4-04). We had the wrong route though. We were to the left of it. Much harder than Osiris. My friend said it was probably a 5.9

Not really liking off-width chimney-ish thinks, I was glad not to lead the first pitch and though it was the hardest on the route. The second is also a bit stout (didn't lead that either) and the third and fourth I thought were quite reasonable. Nothing too funky, good gear, and just when you think it's going to be hard, the holds appear.

Great route, The first pitch was the most fun I've had in a wide crack. I think the people saying this is a pile are just trying to keep the crowds off it.

Robert Curtis - I did this yesterday, had fun. Although I think my partner got the best pitches (I did pitches 2 & 4). I really liked Pitch 4 above the Fang (Steep and exciting). I didn't like haulin' our gear in the first pitch (made the chimneyish sections awkward). Also on the second pitch I went up the "stepped right facing dihedral" that Gillet talks about; has anyone just gone straight up to the tree belay? What's it like done that way?

Did this today and inadvertently combined pitches one and two, it would have been a stretch with a 60m but luckily we had a 70m. Since I still thought I was one P1, I went straight up from the usual first belay and it seemed about 5.8. Pitch 3 was by far the best, hand jams don't get any better; pitch four was kind of a grunt.

Osiris isn't a 3 star due to the awkward natrue of P1 and P4, IMO, but it's still a great route and certainly one that I would do again.

I definitely think Osirus deserves 3 stars. Yeah, maybe pitch one is a bit of a grunt but so is the Harding Slot on Astroman and that doesn't detract from it. While I respect your right to give this 2 stars, I fully disagree. It's staying 3 stars in my book.

I climbed this route today after doing J Crack. I concur that this is a bit of a sandbag, with the caveat that those highly skilled at crack climbing will certainly fare the best. P1 is stiffer than P1 of Werksupp in my opinion. The many flaring, shallow cracks on Osiris that parallel the deeper ones can sucker you into moving over to them, only to find not a jam nor opportunity for pro. I stayed in the offwidth and would step out left from time to time. I combined P1 and P2 to the tree, which barely reaches with a 60m rope and may require your second to climb up so you can get them on belay. You can also combine P4 and P5 with a 60m, but you will not be able to hear your belayer. Have rope tugs agreed upon beforehand.

Did this about a year ago as one of my (and my wife's) first moderate leads. Definitely pushed both of us - made the newbie mistake of trying to drag a backpack up the first pitch. This made the rest of the route total crap in my wife's eyes, but I loved it. Gillett calls the variation of P2 that goes straight up a "hand-crack", but I did it again this past weekend and found the initial portion of the crack to be very wide; does anybody know if this is the variation that he describes?

Totally sweet...combined 1 and 2, just watch for rope drag. It's not a bad climb, just an out of fashion climb!

The first pitch of this climb sucks. Awkward and as far from smooth as possible. The rest of the climb was pretty fun though, especially pitch three.

3 stars is waaaaay off, compared to Kor's Flake, Pear Buttress, or any other high-quality moderate at Lumpy. The climbing is physical, and is not a recommended place to bring anybody green to old-school tactics. Leave the pack on the ground and carry shoes on your harness.

The traverse left on fang ledge makes a STELLAR picture.

Compared to other Lumpy 5.7s, this route will seem very difficult. Be prepared for physical and sustained climbing all at the 5.7 grade.