Rhythm Method 

FA:  Chris Weidner, Patrick Vernon 6/29/06 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 160 feet Views: 291 page views Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jul 11, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Rhythm Method follows the corner out left, with th...

Description 

Rhythm Method climbs the roof-capped, left-leaning corner just left of the 10b finger crack that begins the crux pitch of Between The Sheets. Start in the corner direct (11- R), or further right as for Between The Sheets. In either case, place gear as high as possible in the 10b finger crack before stepping left into the corner. Wrestle leftward underneath the roof, and climb with difficulty up to the horizontal crack of Dead In Bed. Follow the hands to offwidth crack of Sidewinder straight above the corner, all the way to the top of the formation. The protection is just good enough to prevent a ground fall. An onsight attempt of this route would be a serious undertaking.

Location 

Approach: Attain the boulder-strewn terrace beneath Rhythm Method via the western descent gully between the Left Book and The Bookmark. Alternatively, one can climb the first two pitches plus a little more of Fantasy Ridge to reach the terrace.

Descent: Scramble to the flat top of The Bookmark and locate a two-bolt rap anchor on an arete above the west gully. Rap 100 feet, then downclimb 15 feet of class 4, or make a second rap from slings around a boulder.

Protection 

1ea: #0 TCU - #3 TCU, RPs, small-medium nuts, #1 Lowe Ball
2ea: #.5 Camalot
(For wide crack finish 1ea: #.75 - #3.5 Camalots)