Screamin' Eagles 

FA:  Eli Helmuth New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 384 page views Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Apr 25, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Lynn Hill at the first bolt on Wigglin. Screamin'...

Description 

Getting past the first and third bolts could be the crux- bit of a long reach at the first bolt. Very interesting holds, great position, and outstanding orange granite make this a different style from your typical Lumpy outing. On the FA, I climbed the runout but easy (dirty) face on the left edge of the arete above the route. One could also step far right at the ledge and finish on the last three bolts of Wigglin' (12a) for a bit more action.

Location 

Starts 15" left of Wigglin' Fingies on the east face of Bookmark Pinnacle. Rappel or lower off the two-bolt anchor on Wigglin -20m.

Protection 

Small cams can be helpful to reach the first bolt and 1 or 2 cams in the 2" range above the bolts to protect the runout finish to the anchors on Wigglin'.

Add Photo Photos of Screamin' Eagles

third bolt crux on Screamin'