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Mike has just passed the "crux" moving into the ot...
Description
Femp is a good crack climb up the right side of the J-crack slab, though the cruxes involve delicate face climbing. It is easily identified as the next continuous crack line right (a considerable distance) of J-crack, and starts from the same ledge, about 100 feet off the ground.
After reaching the Book, hike right, passing the opposing flakes of Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, the start to J-crack, and stop just past the Cavity, a huge crystalline hole with a large tree, and a clean, thin LF corner rising out of it.
P1- Climb the 5.2 corner right of this and go left to reach the base of the crack, or climb the Cavity corner (5.10, recommended). Belay directly below the crack.
P2- Climb the full rope-length crack pitch, with the first crux at a suspect pin where the crack briefly dies, and the second at a very thin corner at the top. Belay above the thin corner.
P3-many options-- a)traverse left on an easy ramp (J-crack) and continue up to the Cave area. b) climb a crack to an apexed roof (5.7), and continue up a slab to a flaky, right-leaning 5.7 chimney through the roof band, which leads to the descent (long pitch). c) climb the overhanging, LF corner above the belay ("Hemp", rated 5.10), and continue with "b" or "d". d) traverse right to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band. Turn the roof at a wedged flake (also 5.9+) and merge with the top part of "b".
Protection
Bring extra Friends from #3-3.5. Also, be sure to have some very small gear left at the top of the crux lead.
The second pitch is almost exactly 165 feet- I remember having a hard time setting up a comfortable belay because at that point I was working purely with rope stretch. A long rope would be nice to have for this pitch.
Aside from the crux areas, this crack has solid hand jams (with a couple fists) all the way up it. The cruxes are delicate and balancey, but generally well protected. I thought the hardest part was the move just before clipping the pin. I imagine that it might be easier for someone with some reach. P2 is definitely a 3-star pitch!
Since the pitch is pretty straight, you can be conservative with the runners without too many rope drag issues. Having two #2 Camalots is helpful.
Pitch 1 the 5.4 variation has a lot of loose, large boulders on it. Watch out what you grab up by the tree.
Pitch 2 is an endless, straight, gear eating crack without a lot of good rests. It ran about 185'.
Pitch 3 version C as listed above brings a lot of rope drag into the picture since you travese out left from the belay for about 30 feet before turning a 90 degree corner into the 5.8ish dihedral. Variation C is all about stemming once you get around the corner and runs about 180' in length to the top of theweakness in the roof.
Went up to do J-Crack and wound up on Femp. Go figure.
For a rack I would bring 4 #2 and a #3 if you really want to get comfortable. I brought 1 #2 and no #3s and the top half of the crack eats #2s and would take a #3 as well. I really wanted my #2 that I placed on the lower half. Also, the thin section at top takes a #0.4 Camalot in the good hand slot and also a bomber black Alien about 4 inches above that. It is a great climb.
I think Femp is more stout than the 5.9 pitch of J. This is a very worthy climb, the main crack pitch is very long, I felt there were two distinct cruxes (1) at the piton and (2) the last couple of slabby moves to the belay.
This is one of my favs @ Lumpy! Solid crack and very well protected! Do this route and yell with joy @ the top! Two cruxes pretty balancy and as said protected well! 3 stars!
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