This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Lumpy Ridge page.
BETA PHOTO: The crux first half of the Reacharound.
Description
This is a tiny, but highly entertaining little pitch on the southwest corner of the small buttress that protrudes from the left half of the cliff. It starts just left of the obvious wide crack in the center of the cliff (Dave With His Pants Down). Climb a pair of seams up to a right-arching undercling flake. Load the undercling up with gear then devise a way up and out left around the corner to where you can eventually reach around into a finger and hand crack that angles further around to the left and the top of the buttress. The crux is the thin, thought-provoking face climbing en route to the reacharound. Belay from the top of the buttress, and a scrappy traverse off to the left gets you back to the ground.
This pitch was established yo-yo style from the ground up; it has since been onsighted. It’s barely over 40 feet long so if you have a fundamental problem with short pitches, you might want to try something else.
Protection
Light rack including a few RPs for the start and a hand-sized piece for the crack around the corner.
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